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EARLY

KECOLLECTIOIVS OF THE MINES,

IN'D k DESfcRIPTION OF THE

GREAT TULARE VALLEY.

BY J. H. CARSON, ESQ.,

THK DISCOVERER OF CARSON's CREEK. AND ONE OF THK
PIONEERS OF THE WEST.

STOCKTON:

PUBLISHED TO ACCOMPANY THE STEAMER EDITION OF THE " SAS
JOAQUIN REPUBLICAN."

1853.

TO THE

HON. A. RANDALL,

OF MONTEREY, CAL. ;

PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGt AND BOTANY, WHO HAS SPARED NEITHER

ENERGY NOR EXPENSE IN THE HISTORICAL RESEARCHES

OF CALIFORNIA,

THIS HUMBLE WORK

IS MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS
OBtlGED AND OBEDIENT SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR,

EARLY

RECOLLECTIONS OF THE MINES.

EARLY DISCOVERIES OF GOLD, &c.

Having seen many communications in the various papers printed in
California, on different subjects of interest to the people, I am prompted
to furnish a few particulars connected with the history of the times and
people in California, from 1846 to 1852.

The Military and Naval operations, the conquest and acquirement of
California, are matters of history, and are now before the people.

To the " good old times" now past, when each day was big with
the wonders and discoveiies of rich diggings, I would like to principally
confine my observations.

A party of Mormons, who were constructing a saw mill, (where
Coloma now stands,) under Mr. Marshall, it is well known, first
discovered that gold was to be had here for the trouble of picking it up.
After they had procured a small quantity of the dust, they hastened to
that old knight of pioneers, Capt. Sutter, for consultation. What the
sliining scales were they could not properly decide, but they thought it
it was gold ; it looked like it, felt like it, and the stuff had no supicious

San Francisco, which then consisted of twelve or thirteen houses,
scattered along the sand hills, was consulted, and the metal pronounced
to be virgin gold. The effect that this decision had on our quiet
citizens was electric. The population of California, at that day, con-
sisted of hardy, brave, and quiet men, who had travelled over the track-
less wilderness, vi'ith their wives and little ones, their flocks and herds ;
and amidst dangers, toils, and suffeiings had reached the Western con-
fines of our continent, and unfurled the broad banner of freedom, and
beneath it were quietly cultivating our rich valleys, unconscious of the
gold laden hills thai sunounded them. The first reports of the immense
quantities of gold found on every river, gulch, and ravine, was not
believed by these good pioneers of 1840, and the continued arrival of
pounds, arobas andfane.gas of the precious metal, soon quieted all doubts
on thesubject, and a general stampede took place in the different settle-

meals. The many comic scenes that were ena«ted wtuld fill a volume
of humor. Men who, ere then, were content to labor years for a tew
hundred dollars, and many hard-working, honest fellows who never had
twenty dollars at one time in their lives, were now fully convinced that
they had but to procure a pick, pan and knife, go lo the gold region,
and their eternal fortunes were made. I was at that time, (1848,) a
resident of the then flourishing City of Monterey. The months of
April and May had carried off many of our inhabitants — not to their
long homes, hut to the gold mines Many of the old fellows who had
put the whole golden reports down as '' dod drat" humbug, had one
after another gone to the mines. Some had left privately to prevent
the remainder from laughing at them, while others, bordering on
insanity, raved around crying for pick-axe, shovel and pan had started
ofl'at railway speed. The month of May, with all her flowers and
balmy air had approached, and I an unbeliever still. One day I saw a
form, bent and filthy, approaching me, and soon a cry of recognition
was given between us. He was an old acquaintance and had been one
of the first to visit the mines. Now he stOi)d before me : his hair hung
out of his hat— his chin with beard was black, and hisbuckskjns reached
lo his knees ; an old flannel shirt he wore, which many a bush had tore.

Yes, Billy, I can see you yet, just as you stood before mo on that
aunny tenth day of May looking so much like the devil with that great
bag of the Tempter on your back? Then he told me that it was gold,
and that he had made it in five weeks at Kelsy's and the dry diggings
(where Placerviile now is.) I could not believe it but told him the
proof would he in his bag, which was soon opened, and out the metal
tumbled ; not in dust or scales, but in pieces ranging in size from that
of a pea to hen's eggs; and, says he, " this is only what I picked out
W'ith a knife." There was before me proof positive thjit 1 had held too
long to the wrong side of the question. 1 looked on for a moment; a
frenzy seized my soul ; unbidden my legs perioimed some entirely new
movements of Polka steps— I took several— houses were too small for
me to slay in ; I was soon in the street in search of necessaiy outfits ;
piles of gold rose up before me at every step ; castles of marble, dazzling
the eye with their rich appliances ; thousands of slaves, bowing to my
beck and call ; myraids of fair virgins contending with each other for
my love, were among the fancies of my fevered immagination. The
Kothschilds, Girard and Astors appcsared to me but poor people ; iu
short, 1 had a very violent attack of the Gold Fever.

One hour after I became thus affected, I was mounted on an old mule,
armed with a wash hand basin, fire shovel, a piece ot square iron
pointed at one end, a blanket, rifle, a few yards of jerked beef, and a
bag of penola, and going at high pressure mule speed for the diggings.

No Tonds marked the way to the traveller in California then ; but, gui-
ded by the sun and well-known mountain peaks, we proceeded on our
journey. No ferries were iu operation for our passage across the deep
and rapid j^tream?. The site of the now beautiful and flourishing city
of Stockton, was then alone in its irative greainesb ; no steamboat'*

whistle was lieard to startl© the aflVighied elk, iior had the nevvaboys'
oall been heard, or solemn bell called forth the sons of prayer. But
still there was a little mud. Heedless of all difficulties, on, on I sped,
until Mormon Island, on the South Fork, brought me up. Some forty
or fifty men were at work with the cradle machines, and were averaginjf
about 8 oz. per day to the man. But a few moments passed before I
was knee deep in water, with my wash-basin full of dirt, plunging it
about endeavoring to separate the dirt from the gold. After washing
some fifty pans of dirt, J found I had realised about four bits worth of
gold. Reader, do you know how an hombre feels when the gold fever
heat has suddenly fallen to about zero? I do. Kelsey's and the old
dry diggings had just been opened, and to them I next set oul ; a few
hours' ride brought me to the Indian trading camp of Captain Weber's
famed company, where I saw sights of gold that revived the fever again.
I saw Indians giving handsful of gold tor a cotton handkerchief or a
shirt — and so great was the income of the Captain's trading houses that
he was daily sending out mules packed with gold, to the settlements. —
And no man in California was more deserving of this good fortune than
Capt. Weber ; he was one of the men of the Bear i'lag. His t-me
and fortunes had been given to the American cause, and he was ever
seen in our ranks where danger threatened Geology had not been
deeply studied by our son.^ of the '' forest wild," and many were the
conjectures formed as to whar the gold came fiom ; they could find it in
the river any where ; and at last they came to the sage conclusion that
it was washed down from some place where the earth was a bed of gold,
and as it continued to tumble about, became worn into thetliili scales as
they found it. As I have intimated, to find die source whence the pold
came was the great object, and many prospecting parties were .sent out
with this purpose in view. The Indians wiio were working for Cajjis.
Sutter and VVeber gave them leading information, so ihat lliey were en-
abled to know the direction in which new discoveries were to be made.

A party accompanied Mr. Kelsey, and discovered the first dry dig-
gings, which were named Keisey's diggings, after their discoverer. —
The next discovered was the old dry disgings, out of whicii .so nt.iny
thousands of dollars have since been taken. Amongst the pioneers of
these discoveries were Dr. Isabel), Daniel and Jno. Murphy, (who were
connected with Capt. Weber's trading establishments,) Messis. Murray
and Phalen, of San Jose ; Messrs. McKensey and Aram, of Monterey.
The ofd dry diggings were situated at Hangtown, in El Dorado county.
In June, July and August, 1818, it was the centreof attraction for gold
diggers. The population then there, (exchisive of Indians,) consisted
of about three hundred, — old pioneers, native Californians, deserters
from the Army, Navy, and Colonel Stevenson's volunteers, were there
mingled together, the happiest set of men on earth. Every one had
plenty of dust. From three ounces to five pounds was the income per
day to those who would work. The gulches and ravines were opened
about two feet wide and one foot in depth along their centres, and the
gold picked out from amongst tho dirt with a knife. When tlirv failed

to realise two or ihree ounces jte.r day by this method, the diggings wert
pronounced worked out, and new ones were hunted up.

Clothins- was not to be had for love or gold ; and I have seen many
an hombre with as much gold as he could carry, whose skin " peeped
out through many a rent."

The first scales for weighing gold were made by taking a piece of
pine wood for the beam, pieces of sardine boxes for scales, and silver
dollars for weights. (Jold dust could be purchased in any quantity at
four and five dollars per ounce in the diggings, and for six and eight
dollars in the coast towns.

Suiter's Fort was the great mart for trade. Sutter's Embarcadero,
where the city of Sacramento now is, was the landing place for goods
from San Francisco, from which place they were transported to the
stores at the fort, and there exposed for sale.

Honesty (of which we now know so little) was the ruling passion
amongst the miners of '48. Old debts were paid up ; heavy bags of
gold dust were carelessly left laying in their brush homes; mining
tools, though scarce, were left in their places of work for days at a time,
and not one theft or robbery was committed.

Tn August, the old diggings were pronounced as being "dug out,"
and many prospecting parties had gone out. Part of Weber's trading
establishments had secretly disappeared, and nimors were afloat that the
place where all the gold " came from " had been discovered South, and
a general rush of tiie miners commenced that day.

Before bidding farewell to the Northern mines, and taking the reader
South, I would rcmaik that the South and North forks of the American
river, Featlier and Yuba rivers, Kelsey's and the old dry diggings,
were all that had been worked at this date. The Middle and North
fork w^re discovered i)y a few deserters, in September, where, in the
space of a few days, liiey realised from five to twenty thousand dollars
each, and then left California by the first conveyance. Tools for mining
purposes were scarce and high — a pick, pan and shovel ranging from
$50 TO $200; butchers' knives from $10 to $25, and cradle washing
machines from $200 to $800 each. Provisions were worth $2 per lb.,
woollen shirts $50 each, boots and shoes from $25 to $150 per pair.

The discovery of Sutter's Creek and Rio Seco was made in July, and
the Moquelumnc-river diggings, at which there was but little done,
that season. Mr. Wood, with a prospecting party, discovered at the
same time Wood's Creek, on the Stanislaus, out of which the few who
were there then were realising two and three hundred dollars per day,
with a pick and knife alone.

Carson, who had been directed by an Indian, discovered what has
since been known as Carson's Creek', in which himself and a small par-
ty took out. in ten days, an average of 180 ounces each. Angel also
discovered Angel's Cieek, at which he wintered in 1848. Ever first
with the discoveries were Capt. Weber's trading stores— John and Dan-
iel Mnrphv, and Dr. Tsabell being with them. With many traders, in
those days, weighing gold for Indians and white people was a different

matter ; honesty, generosity, and justice tnatked theii every transaction
with the Christian, but they had weights and prices lor the Indians. —
And if this should meet the eyes of any of them, they will please re-
ceive the thanks of the writer for teaching him the art of "throwing the
lead" for the benefit of the Digger Indians.

The gold discoveries reached no farther south during 1848-r-with the
exception of the TuolnmnCj on which gold was only known to exist. -^
The rains commenced the last of October, which drove full two-thirds
of the diggers down to the coast, where we will follow them directly.
Those who remained in the mines during the winter of '48, made but
little at mining, as the supplies for their subsistence were so high as to
absorb all they made — but the traders amassed fortunes.

In 1846 and '47, the price of the finest horses was $20 ; fat bullocks,
$6 ; wild mares, 75 cents each ; flour and vegetables, " we didn't had
any." We lived on beef and beans-^beef dried, fried, roasted, boiled
and broiled, morning, noon and night : as much as every man wanted,
without money or price ; with a change, at times, to elk, venison and
bear steak. The emigrants of 1846 did not expect to find any luxuries
in California, with the exception of a balmy atmosphere and a rich soil
— and they well knew that industry would soon supply the rest. The
discovery of gold raised the price of stock in proportion with everything
else. Horses and mules in the mines were worth from two to four
hundred dollars ; cattle from one to two hundred dollars per head. I
have seen men give two and three hundred dollars for mules and horses
— ride them from one digging to another— take their saddles off, and
set the animals loose, (never looking for them again,) remarking that
*' it was easier to dig out the price of another, than to hunt up the one
astray."

The morals of the miners of '48 should here be noticed. No person
worked on Sunday at digging for gold—but that day was spent Kwpros-
pecting in the neighborhood, by the more sedate portion of the miners ;
while others spent it in playing at poker, with lumps of gold for checks j
others, collected in groups, might be seen under the shades of neigh-
boring trees, singing songs, playing at "old sledge" and drinking whis-
ky— in all of which proceedings, harmony, fun and good will to each
other were the prominent features, We had ministers of the gospel
amongst us, but they never preached. Religion had been forgotten,
even by its ministers, and instead of their pointing out the narrow way
which leads to eternal happiness, " on each returning Sabbath morn,"
they might have been seen, with pick-axe and pan, travelling untrodden
ways in search of " filthy lucre" and treasure that " fadeth away," or
drinking good health and prosperity with friends.

Now let us look at the coast cities and the settlements during '47 and
'48. The first emigration to California from the United States took
place in 1846. Many persons perished in the mountains, or were com-
pelled to subsist on the flesh of their dead companions. These men —
inured to toil, knowing no fear: with hearts that had grown big with
the love of freedom — soon hoisted a Flag of Independence, determined

to build up a Republic on tiie i^acific. Tlie war with Mexico brought
to our shores the broad stripes and bright stars of America The Bear
Flag was hoisted, and beneath it, under Col. Fremont and other brave
officers, were soon enrolled those sons of the forest who followed their
leaders against the enemy through the hard winter of '46. Their hard-
ships and sufferings through that campaign were unequalled by any du-
ring the war with Mexico. At Los Angeles, in the spring cf '47, they
were disbanded, without pay for services or remuneration for supplies
furnished by them-^and, like our fathers of the revolution j they return*
ed to their homes, naked and destitute.

But little progress was made in agricultural pursuits during '47. —
In the spring of 1848, considerable crops Were sown, of wheat in par-
ticular. San Francisco, Monterey and San Jose were fast improving
under the head of industry, and many comfortable buildings Were erect-
ed. S(»noma and Santa Cruz were also becoming settled. The dis-
covery of the gold mines put an entire stop to these improvements —
The towns were deserted, ranches with their crops ungathered were
left to the mercy of thousands of cattle and horses, with which the val-
leys and hills were then covered. The ravens croaked from the house-
tops, and grass grew around the doors of the rancherias.

The gold discoveries were made known to the department at Wash-
ington by Col. Mason ; his reports were taken up by that greatest of
all levers, the Press. Its thousand tongues ])roclaimed it to the world,
and a mania seized the civilized of every land* A revolution in affairs
took place, which naught but gold could have effected, and every man
set his face towards the land of Ophir. Oregon furnished the first emi*
grants. Chili and Sonora next, and the balance of creation soon follow-
ed. At the close of 1848 our popultion numbered about ten thousaadi
"We promised to follow the miners to the towns on the coast, where
about two-thirds had gone to winter. San Francisco, Monterey and
Los Angeles had received the greater portion of this heterogeneous
mass; men ragged and filthy in the extreme, with thousands of dollars
in their pockets, filled the houses and streets, driuKing and gambling
away their piles. No supplies or accommodations could be obtained. —
In San Francisco, in particular, every house and tent was nightly crowd-
ed with these beings, who were in many cases packed away in rooms
like shad. I applied at a public house in San Francisco, m October,
for food and lodgings ; I got beef broiled, bard bread, and a cup of aw*
ful coffee, for which I paid the moderate sum of five dollars. By fur-
nishing my own blankets and paying a dollar, I got permission to sleep
on a bowling alley, after the rolling had ceased, which was near two
o'clock in the morning* Gambling seemed to be the ruling passion —
there was no value set on money, as it would not procure the comforts
of life, or amusement or pleasure to the holders ; millions of dollars
were recklessly squandered at the gaming tables and drinking shops. —
As soon as a miner became fat broke^ he wended his way to the mines
again, to replenish his pile, and then have another bxist. Some few, as
soon as they procured eight or ten thousand dollars, availed themselves

of the first opportunity, and left for more quiet lands. I have seen men
with from thirty to fifty thousand dollars worth of dust, shipping as
sailors before the mast for ports in the Pacific, from which they could
reach the United Slates.

The first exploring parties for the discovery of gold to the South of
where the discovery of '48 rested, was in the month of March, 1849.
The Mission Indians of San Miguel had brought into Monterey large
specimens of gold, and reported it to have come from King's River and
vicinity. Mr. William R. Gardner, who had been in California for
some fifteen years, and was acquainted with some of these Indians,
determined to fit out a trading expedition for that region ; the writer
of this was importuned to accompany him, but owing to the indefensive
manner in which he persisted in going, the offers were declined.
Gardner left Monterey the 1st of March with five or six ox wagons,
with Indian drivers and four Spaniards as companions ; he passed
through the coast range at the pass of San Miguel, crossed the lake
slough near the Tulare Lake, and then passed up the noith side of
King's River to the foot of the Sierra Nevada ; here he was met by
Indians in large numbers from the mountains, who displayed large
quantiiies of gold ; they refused to trade with him unless he came to
their settlements ; they having every mark, apparently, of friendship
for him, he travelled two days into the mountains, where the Indians
attacked him, killing himself and all his party with the exception of a
Sonoranian who was accompanying them. This man brought back
nothing of Mr. Gardner's property, with the exception of his papers,
amongst which was the journal of the expedition. In his last entries,
he says: " We have travelled about twenty miles to-day, the number
of Indians around us have increased every hour for the last three days,
and novv number over a thousand — most of them have gold which is
generally coarse, and to my enquiries of them wheie they obtained it,
they pointed to the Eastward. There is a great stir among the Indians,
and their squaws and children have left. I have now the greatest fears
for my safety." The Indians who murdered Gardner and party, were
the Chowchillas, Chowochicimnies and Kaweeahs — the most thieving,
treacherous and blood-thirsty tribes of the Tulares.

The next exploring party consisted of Messrs. Loveland, Curtis,
Swain, Harris and some four others. This party reached the moun-
tains on the 20th of March, some fifteem miles south of the Merced
river, and made the first discovery of gold in the neighborhood of what
is now known as Burn's Diggings ; but before they had made any
progress, the Indians attacked them in large numbers, drove them out,
and dangerously wounded two of their party.

The next party of exploration was more formidable than the two
first mentioned. This party consisted of ninety-two men, under the
guidance of Carson & Robinson, of Monterey ; they were composed of
Dragoons and discharged Teamsters from the command of Major
Graham, which had arrived from Mexico, and a number of disbanded
Volunteers of Col. Stevenson's Regiment, well aimed and equipped.

This party struck into the Sierra Nevada where the Mariposa enters
the plains, and explored the adjacent country, finding gold in many
places ; they thence proceeded to the Merced and Tuolumne and found
gold on these streams and tributaries as far as they went. The reports
of these expeditions soon peopled those regions. Col. Fremont and his
party were about the first who dug gold in the Mariposa region on
what is known as Fremont's Creek.

Not being pleased with the discoveries South 1 staited back with a
small party to the scenes of my former good fortunes ; but when I
arrived, 1st May, 1849, a change had come over the scene since I had
left it; Stockton, that I had last seen graced only by Joe Buzzel's log
house with a tule roof, was now a vast linen city. The tall masts of
barques, brigs, and schooners were seen high pointed in the blue vault
above — while the merry "ye ho ! " of the sailor could be heard, as box,
bale, and barrel were landed on the banks of the slough. A rush and
whirl of noisy human beings were continually before the eye. The
magic wand of gold had been shaken over a desolate place, and on it a
vast city had arisen at the bidding.

The winter of 1848 and spring of 1849 had brought to our shores an .
addiiion of some fifty thousand to our population. Sacramento city,
like Stockton, had sprung up Minerva like, full grov^'n ; Sutter's Fort
•was nearly deserted, or at least no trade was carried on within its
walls; Sacramento and Stockton had then become, and ever will
remain the great depots for the mining regions.

We continued on to the old diggings from Stockton. When we
reached the top of the mountains overlooking Carson's and Angel's
Creeks, we had to stand and gaze on the scene before us — the hill-sides
were dotted with tents, and the Creeks filled with human beings to such
a degree that it seemed as if a day's work of the mass would not leave
a stone unturned in them. We did not stop, but proceeded on to
Wood's Creek, in hopes there to find more room to exercise our digging
propensities. But here it was worse — on the long flat we found a vast
canvass city, under the name of Jamestown, which, similar to a bed of
mushrooms, had sprung up in a night. A hundred flags were flying
from restaurants, taverns, rum mills and gaming houses. 1 he gambling
tables iiad their crowds continually, and the whole presented a scene
similar to that of San I'Vancisco during the past winter. I have there
seen Spaniards betting and aroba of gold at a time, and win or lose it
as coolly as if it had been a bag of clay. Gold dust had risen in value
from what it was in 1848 — ^as high as ten dollars per ounce was given
for gold dust at the monte banks. Wood's Creek was filled up with
miners, and I here for the first time alter the discovery of gold, learned
what a miner's claim was. In 1848 the miners had no division of the
ground into claims — they worked where it was richest, and many times
four or five could be seen at work in a circle of six feet in diameter ;
but here they were now measuring the ground o^ with tape measures,
under the direction of the Alcades, so as to prevent disputes arising
from the division.

In the great emigration that had taken place, the City and State of
New York had the majority against the balance of the states ; and
although the greater part of them were gentlemen and good-hearted
fellows, yet there were some of the smallest specimens of the human
family amongst them that I ever saw in California. I have seen some
of these arrive in the diggings, and in their settlements quarrel about
the amount of four cents' difference. A man who would quarrel in the
gold mines of California, in 1849, about such an amount, must surely
have had a soul so small that ten thousand of them would not make a
shadow.

Mormon Gulch, Soldiers' Gulch, Sullivan's Diggings, and the Rich
Gulch of the Moquelumne, had been rich discoveries, made during the
fall and winter, and were now centres ©f attraction. Curtis' Creek,
and the rich diggings of the flats around Jamestown, soon followed. —
In October, '48, a small party of us were encamped on the flat near
where Sonora now stands. Nightly a California lion greeted us with
his long howl, on the hill now occupied by the town ; he seemed to be
conscious that the white man was approaching, and that his old play-
grounds were soon to be occupied by a tented city.

The northern mines had also received a heterogeneous mass to their
population, and towns were springing up through the mineral districts.
Coloma, like the rest, had grown up in a day, but more substantial than
her sisters — most of the buildings being framed. The timber for these
buildings was sawed on the ground, being taken at the saw mill at five
hundred dollars per thousand feet.

Each day now added thousands to our population, all of whom came
intent on making fortunes in a few days, and then leaving the country ;
many came on speculating expeditions ; property of every description
ran up to rates that set the world to wondering. In San Francisco, in
particular, lots and buildings changed hands at rates unknown before
in the annals of trade.

But to return to the diggings. This swarm of human beings " laid
cold" the bright calculations of the old diggers of 1848. They had
found gold at every step, and looked on the supply as inexhaustible —
that for years to come but few would be here, and that our rich harvest
would continue as it then was. Men who would work could get from
one to five hundred dollars per day ; and in confidence of this good for-
tune continuing, these heavy earnings were foolishly spent in drinking
and gaming, purchasing fine horses, and dressing in the gaudy Indian
style Honesty was the ruling passion of '48. If an hombre got broke,
he asked the first one he met to loan him such amount as he wanted,
until he could " dig her out." The loans were always made, and
always paid according to promise. The writer, on one occasion, was
accosted by name at the old dry diggings, by a rough looking case (with
whom I had no acquaintance) for the loan of some dust until a specified
time. His rough hands and muscular arms proclaimed him a working
man, which was all the security required. Without asking his name,
the amount (filty ounces) was handed to him. On the day appointed, it

was duly returned, with an additional pound, and a pound of brandy for
*' old acquaintance sake," as he remarked — telling the lender, at the

same time, that he considered him " a d d fine feller. It would not

be very safe to lend out dust under like circumstances at the present
date.

But this honesty, so universal in '48, was not to be f(»und in the
crowds that daily thickened around us in '49. Hordes of pick-pockets,
robbers, thieves and swindlers were mixed with men who had come
with honest intentions. These rascals had lived all their lives by the
" sleight of hand," and it was evident that they had not come to Cali-
fornia with gold rings on their white, soft hands, for the purpose of
wielding the pick and pan in obtaining their wishes. Murders, thefts
and heavy robberies soon became the order of the day. A panic seized
that portion of the diggers, who had never before been oui of sight ot
*' marm's chimbly," and who went cringing about in fear, though most
of them presented ihe appearance of travelling armories ; yet it was
evident they wouldn't shoot. But men were to be found who had rid-
den the " Elephant" of this wnirld all their lives, and well knew the
course we had to pursue under the change of affairs. Whipping on
the bare back, cutting off ears, and hanging, soon became matters of
as frequent occurrence as those of robbery, theft and murder.

The years 1850 and 1851, have passed. The world have stood
amazed, and looked in wonder at the rapid strides to greatness that we
have made, California has been admitted as a State — a civil govern-
ment established. Cities and inland towns innumerable have sprung
from chaos. The depths of the mountains have been made glad by the
sound of busy life ; the places desolate and lonely three years ago, are
now graced by large and flourishing towns ; a hundred steamers plough
our waters, which had lain for ages unrippled by the hand of man ;
the plough-boys's merry whistle is heard as he turns up the rich soil,
where, as if it were but yesterday, the elk and deer had their play-
grounds. In San Francisco, a city of four years growth, now spreads
her bright wings o'er many hills, and laves her bosom far in the depths
of the land-kicked bay: several times in that short period have we seen
her fair proportions laid in smoking ruins, and each time successively
rebuilt, more bright, more great ; and she now stands the proud empo-
rium of the Western Seas, Vessels of every civilized nation of earth
crowd her docks ; and the bells of departing steamers scarcely cease to
be heard. Yet great as she is, her greatness is but just begun to what
she is destined to become. Sacramento and Stockton, the great inland
towns for trade and commerce, came into existence almost in a day.
They, too, suffered from the scathing hand of flood and flame, but
rose again e're the smoke of their destruction had died away.

The rich mineral and agricultural resources of o jr glorious young
State, are but just being developed; our rich soil, once pronounced
barren and unfit for agricultural purposes is novi^ yielding to the farmer
its hundred fold, and our march is swift, onward and upward. Yet,
amidst our present prosperity, there is a dark cloud that dampens the

spiiit of our enterprise — it is the indebtedness of our State, county and
city corporations.

Our civil government has been in existence but two years ; our State
is in debt over two and a quarter millions of dollars; our different
counties fiom ten to sixty thousand dollars ; the corporations of the
cities from five thousand to a million dollars each. We have freely paid
the enormous tax and licenses imposed upon us, and our indebtedness is
daily increasing at a destructive rate. With the exception of San
Francisco and Sacramento, we have not a Jail or Court House in the
State ; not one stone has been laid upon another by the State in the
construction of a State House, State Prison, or any other building for
our government. Our laws are almost an enigAia, and have failed to
protect as they should, the people.

The tax-payer very naturally inquires what has become of these vast
sums? to what purpose have they been applied? whose pockets do they
now fill? Our debts have been contracted by the representatives whom
we have elected to office, and it makes no difl^erence to what purpose
the money has been appliei, we stand pledged as an honorable people
to pay it. California will never lepudiate. Give us but five or six
years to pay these debts, and it will be done without our feeling its
burthen. Let our Legislators lay aside all speculative schemes for one
day, at least, and take the welfare of the people into consideration, and
act in behalf of California's interests, so far as to fund the State debt,
at an interest that can be paid ; let them give the counties and corpora-
tions the same power, and the cloud that now sets upon our prospects
will be cleared away.

Our only export since the discovery of the gold mines of California
has been money. Everything we consume, from the bread we eat to
the handle of the miner's pick, has been imported at ruinous rates.
Under these circumstances we cannot but be poor. The taxation for
the support of our profligate government has been paid by the few ;
this has caused a dissatisfaction in one portion of the State, and a
division of the Western gem is asked for. Gentlemen, you who have
taken up your permanent residence in the land of gold, keep cool for a
while, and you will have no cause for discontent. Let the Land Com-
missioners decide at the earliest day on the right to land claims which
now have our agricultural resources bound down, and but a few months
will intervene before the rich lands now lying idle will be in the hands
of the agriculturalist.

We iiave around us the sound of the mechanic's hammer and plane.
Go to our valleys and at every step you will see the hand of the farmer
scattering the bright seeds on our virgin soil, and the calm smile that
plays across his lionest, sun-burnt face, assures you that his heart tells
him of the return of an hundred fold. Two years more and Caii-
fornia will cease to bo a market for foreign products ; we will have
enough for our home consumption, and to spare. On the success or
failure of our agricultural pursuits, depends the future wealth or poverty
of California.

A word to the miners of the present day, and lam done. It is to
you, diggers, I speak — you who are enduring the hardships and priva-
tions ot" the mountains, and working- hard to honestly gain a fortune.
Many of you, no doubt, are not making much more than what supports
you comfortably, but a majority of you are getting more money per day
for your labor ttian you could per week at any place in the civilized world;
and you are happy, independent, and your own masters. A great many
are yet realizing large fortunes in a short time. Don't any of you
despair ; there are yet just as rich diggings as ever have been discovered,
and as large "chunks" beneath the earth yet as have ever been taken
therefrom. It is true you have to work harder now to get it than
formerly, yet it is to be had ; thousands of square miles are yet lying
untouched by the pick, beneath which millions of hidden treasure lies
concealed. Never give it up, nor think that the days of making for-
tunes in the gold mines have passed ; Thousands will be making for-
tunes in the mines of California a hundred years hence. The mineral
lands, as far as explored, are nearly four hundred miles in length, and
from fifty to one hundred and fifty in width. This is a vast field for
you to operate in; and if some of you have had bad luck for a time,
clo not despair, but let your watch-word be *' work, wait and hope."
If you have worked hard without realizing your desires, try again, —
try a new place — work, wait and hope, and your wishes will yet be
gratified. In comparing the prospects of the miner of 1848 with those
of 1852, the latter has a decided advantage over the former. It is true,
in the old times we daily took out hundreds and thousands of dollars
with a pick and knife; we made piles easy, and we spent them tambien,
for we expected it was to continue so forever. We had no means of
enjoyment, not even a tent to cover us, and the provisions on which we
subsisted were but sufficient to support life, and for which we paid high
prices. You of 1852 have to work hard and dig deep — you have every
advantage of machinery and improvement to aid you, and your gains in
many instances are nearly as large as in the olden time. Every com-
fort and luxury of life are at your command, and at prices that are
reasonable ; you are not taxed as you were then, yet you pay a heavy
tax from your hard earnings. The tax here mentioned needs an explan-
ation, 10 those who have never studied what it is. Since the day
money first became an article of commerce, a swarm of Shylocks have
been seen following the laboring man, and feeding and fattening on the
sweat that labor rings from the brow of the hardy sons of toil. Cali-
fornia has been a grand field for the operations of the pickers of human
bones. To those — the buyers of gold dust, and the traders, who
g-enerally priced their goods so that their gains were regulated by the
market value of gold dust — the laboring class have been paying a tax
before unknown in the history of the woild. In 1848, when gold dust
was worth but six dollars per ounce in coin in the mines, the miners
paid to these plunderers two-thirds of their hard earnings. Shylocks
in the coast towns gave eight dollais per ounce, thus taking from the
miner five-ninths of his earnings, without giving him an equivalent.

In '49, the average price of gold dust was about $14 per ounce, and
about two-ninths of the miners' hard earnings went to line the pockets
of the eaters of human flesh. I make these calculations from the fact
that the lowest assay of California gold at the United States mint has
been over $18 per ounce; the difference between this, its lowest real
value, and the prices the miners have received for it, is the silent tax
which they have been paying. In '50 and '51, gold was worth $16
per ounce, leaving for the speculator one-ninth as his share. At present
you unlv pay a tax of one-eighteenth of your earnings to the lordly-
speculator. In '48, if we made $500 per day, its value to the miner
was but $200 ; if you make $600 at present, it is worth to you $566.66,
your silent tax bemg only $33.33, instead of $400.

If you refused to sell or spend your dust, and wished to send it to
the mint, or any part of the States, you had, and have yet, to pay from
five to ten per cent, for that privilege. This silent tax has been paid
into the pockets of speculators to the amount of full forty millions of
dollars since the commencement of gold mining in California. This
may be said to be caused by the neglect of the general government to
furnish us with a mint, whereat the miner could have had the full value
of his labor awarded him. But this state of affairs is about to termi-
nate. In a few months we fondly hope to have a branch of the mint of
the United States in full operation here, that will close many a shop
whose sign is " <Se compra oro.^'' Getting the full value of your dust
is not the only advantage the miner will derive from the establishment
of a mint. A certificate or mint draft will cost you nothing, and you
can forward it to any part of the world ; you can send by this method
from one hundred to a million of dollars, to any point you desire, with-
out having the feeling satisfaction of first paying from five to ten per cent,
for the privilege. Therefore, diggers, rejoice; for there are better
and brighter days just ahead of you. " Work, wait and hope."

A few words relative to miners' claims, and the best means to be
adopted for their equalization and adjustment, may not be out of place
in this connection.

During the years '48, '49 and '50, the miners managed their claims
in the different diggings quietly, and all went on smoothly. Different
diggings, it is true, in many cases had different rules and different
amounts of ground to work on — but this scarcely ever caused any seri-
ous trouble. If disputes arose in regard to the ownership or boundary
of a claim, it was left to the decision of a few of the miners at work
nearest to them, and thus matters were quietly settled without cost to
the parties. During 1851, many bloody affrays occurred in regard to
disputed claims ; the courts were frequently applied to, and in some
cases their decisions only made the difficulty worse. There can be no
power to legislate for the government or apportionment of the public
domain, except the Congress of the United States. President Fillmore,
in his message to Congress, very properly recommended that the min-
eral lands of California remain as they are — a field in which the labor-
ing man of every clime has a right to work without price or rent. The

mineis are thus left (and very properly, too,) to legislate for them-
selves, and make such rules for the government of their claims as unto
themselves seemed proper.

It appears from the many disputes and law suits regarding claims in
the mines, (especially in quartz veins, which must prove a source of
profit for many years to come,) that the miners should make a uniform
and established rule throughout the whole mineral region, setting forth
what number of feet shall constitute a claim for each miner. For this
purpose let delegates be chosen from each district — placer diggings, and
for the different quartz veins. Let these delegates be practical miners
— working men — not useless idlers or hangers-on about the mines, who
can be influenced by a few dollars. Let a day be fixed for these repre-
sentatives to meet in convention in some one of the most central mi-
ning towns : not at any of the cities away from the mines, where their
deliberations could be influenced or disturbed by designing speculators
or gas-blowers. Let such a convention make rules for the government
of mining operations, and make a uniform size to miners' claims in the
different kinds of diggings, and let these be binding on all engaged in
mining. In case of dispute or disagreement, let the disputants refer
their case to a Board of Arbitration, composed of miners ; let the decis-
ions of these Boards be governed by evidence, and by the rules and
regulations laid down by the proposed convention. When these sug-
gestions are adopted, the rifle and the knife, and, more than all, the
courts, will be no more called into requisition for the settlement of dis-
putes. I am one who holds that the courts of California, or of any
other State in the Union, have no more right to portion out or make
bounds to the claims of miners in the mineral lands of the United
States, than they have to portion out the flower gardens for the Em-
peror of China.

ANECDOTES AND SKETCHES

ILLUSTRATIVE OF CALIFORNIA., AND MINKRS' LIFE.

A few Sketches from Life in the Diggings, in 1848 and 1849, may
here prove interesting. The fortunes being daily made by labor in the
mines induced men of every profession and calling to take the pick-axe
and pan ; mingled together in the search of gold vi^ere to be seen Ex-
Governors, members of Congress, lawyers, doctors, mechanics of every
grade, merchants, men delicate, and men inured to trial, and represent-
atives of every people on earth. Amongst such a community, the
observer of human nature had a wide field for study. The lust for, and
struggle to obtain the wealth of this world, often shovi^s up human
nature in all its deformities. In some, its acquirement brings out the
good part of our nature, and men who were looked upon while poor,
as savages to their fellow men, prove under the influence of wealth,
pure philanthropists and brothers to the human family ; but such cases
are of rare occurrence. The effect of sudden wealth on mankind has,
perhaps, never been so deeply marked as in California. I have here
seen men leaving the settlements, in 1848, poor and nearly naked for
the mines ; these men were then the comrades of poor, but honest persons,
who, like themselves, had labored long in the Eastern States without
gaining a competence ; after reaching the mines fortune followed them,
one success after another had placed them, in the course of a few
months, in possebsion of hundreds of thousands of dollars. This wealth,
suddenly acquired, made them what the world are pleased to call gen-
tlemen, in which situation they looked on all companions in disdain,
because they were poor, and often passed them with a cool nod of
recognition. This was noticed but in very few cases amongst the old
settlers, on whom the effect of wealth had not the power to change their
natures.

A GRATEFUL SON.

I worked at Carson's Creek, near a party of men from Oregon.
Some were men of family — others had left sweethearts behind ; and
one of them, a young man, appeared to have no other design than to
make happy his aged parents. I learned that his parents were aged,
helpless, and depended entirely on the exertions of their son for subsis-
tence. He had struggled hard to make them comfortable ; but low-
wages, and high prices for all he purchased, had kept him from making
much progress, and he had now reached California over the mountains,
with bright hope to illumine his path. When he reached the diggings,
c

hope and doiiU could be seen strugglins: within his soul. But a short
time elapsed before his muscular arms were swinging- the pick,
(success must attend a cause like his,) and soon his heart was made glad
by finding several large pieces; his countenance beamed with delight-
he had struck what miners term a rich pocket, and as one chunk afier
another rolled out, his feelings would give way in half maniac expres-
sions ; such as "that 's mam's," '' that's dad's," "that's for dad's
winter coat," &c., as he worked without cessation. Those who knew
him said that he had made no other calculation than for the comfort of
his aged parents, if success attended his exertions. In a few days he
had taken out nearly five thousand dollars, and then bid us farewell
for awhile ; in his adieu to his companions, a tear could be seen start-
ing in his eyes, while his soul seemed to burst out in one loud laugh,
when he told them that he would go back and make his parents rich
and happy and then return again and work for himself; and with him
went the blessings of all around. Few men with a heart like his have
ever come to California without finding a rich pocket.

GOLD AND LOVE.

Amongst the same party was a love sick swain, whose tiiarriage had
been prevented because he could not raise one hundred dollars in money
^— a sum that his desired father-in-law required him to have before he
could get his gall Most of the party knew these stipulations, and the
frequent enquiry of Jake—" Have you raised the hundred yet" could
be heard from some of the party every few moments. Two or three
days passed without Jake making any satisfactory answer, when one
evening he took the proceeds of his labor to a store and had it weighed,
and found that he was the possessor of nearly five hundred dollars.
This was four times as much as he thought he had, and it pleased him
to such a degree that he came pitching into camp like a young buffalo,
slapping his hands on his thighs and imitating the crowing of a
cock, exclaimed — " Wal, boys, Jake's a married man now, by gosh."
This raised a roar of laughter throughout the camp. As soon as quiet
was restored Jake informed us " that he had 'bout five times as much
as the old man ever axd for the gal, and he thought he would start
back for Oregon to-morrow." This he was persuaded from doing
before he had got enough to start house-keeping with. Three weeks
after, Jake's " pile " had risen to over six thousand dollars, and great
ideas of vast speculations filled his mind ;— he had purchased some
fine horses, threw away his buckskin suit, and was dressed in what
he termed " fine store truck." One evening while we were around
the camp fire, cooking slap-jacks, frying pork, and prejjaring, in differ-
ent ways, a miner's supper^ Jake made his appearance amongst us. He,
at this time, appeared quite sedate, apparently in deep and' determined
thought ; but he was soon aroused by the enquiry of—" Jake when are
you going back to Oregon to marry your gal ? " " Wall," said he, " I
don't know as Til go back to Oregon ; and as to the gal, she 's good

enough, but you all know her old dad is purty darn'd poor, and I think
I can'^do bettter some whar else ; " — and I dont think Jake ever went
back to claim his bride.

THE SAILOR DIGGERS.

We had many sailor diggers amongst us, who had left their ships in
distress in the Bay of San Francisco. Jack is generally happy and
jovial anywhere, but in the gold mines he was particularly so. One or
two days work in the mines would give him the means of a good spree;
and if they had clothes to wear, all they cared for was their grub and
rum, which they freely indulged in, and all their earnings generally
went to the shops ; yet their jollity and proverbial good heartedness never
deserted them. If a man was unfortunate enough to be taken sick in
the mines, he received but little attention ; but with the Sailors it was
different. If one of them was taken sick his comrades paid him every
attention until he recovered or died.

THE DANDY IN THE MINES.

In the tide of emigration which set into the mines in the latter part
of 1848 and during '40, were to be found every species of the human
family ; and amongst the other animals, a full sized live dandy could be
seen once in a while, with a very delicate pick, a wash pan made to
order in the States, and a fine Bov/ie knife, perambulating through the
diggings in search of "ah very rich hole, whah a gentleman could pro-
cure an agreeable shade to work under." Of such cases as these, the
old diggers generally made play-actors, and gave them the whole dig-
gings for a stage on which to perform. The dandy has always been
known to go dressed in the finest and most fashionable apparel — kid
gloves that covered lilly white hands, small walking stick, hair usually
long, and soaped down until his head shines like a junk bottle, feet en-
cased in patent leather boots, speaking a sweet little language of his
own, which is faintly tinged in places with the English tongue, was
never known to have done an hour's work in his life, and the oldest
inhabitants never knew one of them to have a "dem cent." Such a
thing as that, of course, was never made for a digger in the gold mines,
although the old 'uns used to make them try it hard. One of this spe-
cies came into a ravine on the Stanislaus in which some thirty men
were at work ; it was the month of June, '49, and the heat of the sun
was quite oppressive in the mountains, and most of us were lying in
our camps, but were aroused by the arrival of five finely dressed stran-
gers; four of them were professional men, who, after having struggled
hard for years in the Eastern States for a fortune without success, had
come to California with the intention of laboring in the mines ; they
were good-hearted fellows and gentlemen in the true sense of tlie word ;
such as these, the old miners always instructed, aided and encouraged
by every means, in their worthy undertakings. The fifth one was a
dandy, who, with his soft talk and foolish questions, soon attracted the

miners' attention, and his former companions (the first four mentioned)
seemed to wish to get rid of him. For the love of fun, we agreed to
take him off their hands, and instruct him in the fine art of handling
the pick and spade. He was first informed that he must get an axe,
cut brush and build him a camp, then to take oflf his fine shirt and a
beautiful hat which was of that pattern known as a flug ; and a flannel
shirt and straw hat offered him in exchange. To this ariangement he
could not submit, but informed us that he would not undergo such " ah
dem transmogrification— that he was ah gentleman— had been raised as
such, and he hoped we had common understanding sufficient to appre-
ciate his feelings ; that he had stopped amongst us because he knew we
were ' dem foin fellows,' and all he desired at present Avas to be given
a rich hole, very easy to dig." Such a place was shown him as was
known to consist of the hardest earth in the gulch, and where no gold
had ever been found. He set to work with his little pick, which he
used about as handy as a ring-tail monkey would. After working by
spells for some two hours, he had thrown out about a bushel of dirt
without seeing any gold. Disheartened, he threw down his tools, and
came up to where some dozen of us were enjoying the rich sight of a
*' dandy's" first attempt at gold digging. Pie was in a perfect rage —
swore that the gold mines were a " demed humbug^that Gov, IVlason
had written positive falsehoods, for the purpose of enticing young men
from their elegant homes to people this desolate region, and he deserved
to be rode on a rail for his treachery." After he had blown off" a long
stream of fancy indignation gas, we advised him to cool down and go
to work again, and he would have bftter success; to this he entered a
demurrer, stating that he was a gentleman unused to such slavery ; that
it was impossible for him to subsist on such unpalatable food as we fur-
nished him with; and being somewhat short of funds, he requested us
to furnish him with dust sufficient to take him back to San Francisco,
whece he could get'into business immediately. To this request, soft
and gentle as it was, we told him that it was rather inconvenint for us
to comply, but advised him to hire some men to work for him — that he
could get good hands for $20 per day, who, he might rest assured,
would get out each three ounces, thus giving him a fine profit. Tiiis
seemed to please him well, and he set the next day as thai on which his
future fortunes were to commence. Early next morning he was to be
seen making exertions to hire men to work for him, but without any
apparent success, as lie soon came back and informed us that the "dem'd
scoundrels had had the impertinence to grossly insult him when he
asked them to hiaw out." At the bottom of the gulch, off from the
rest, an old mountaineer had erected his brush house ; and old trappers
generally have about the same regard for a dandy that he has lor a

skunk ; and old M was one of the oldest stamp, and was about as

pleasant a companion to mankind as a grizzly bear would prove to be.
To M.'s camp our dandy friend was directed, as being a place where he
Avould be sure to get one good man at least. After viewing his toilet
for a moment, off he started ; the whole population of the hollow was

on tiptoe to know the result of his expedition. Some felt confident that
old M. would make him smell the muzzle of his rifle— others that he
would work for the dandy in a way that would be quite satisfactory to
a man oi feeling. But a short time elapsed before a loud yell from the
vicinity of old M.'s camp informed us that the beauty " vat wanted to
hire gold diggers" was in a tight place. What passed at M.'s camp
between the two, we never learned ; but the yells drew nearer, until at
length the dandy and old M. were seen coming at rail-road speed ; M.
had a brush from the side of his shanty, with which he gave the dandy
a loving rap at every jump ; and as far as we could see them over the
hills, the same persuasive power of locomotion was being applied. Old
M. returned in a short time, swearing that " that ar 'tarnal varmint
never come to his lodge without being sent thar, and if he knew the
man, he would have a lock of his ' har' to len ember him by." We
nevei saw our dandy digger again, and no doubt he never stopped be-
fore San Francisco brought him up.

"POOR QUALITY."

The next useless class in the diggings, after the Dandy, is what is
known in the Middle and Southern States, as " Poor Quality."

These were generally pitied, not despised. They were young men,
sons of planters, who had once been wealthy, and had raised their sons
up in idleness — taught, them, in short, that it was low and despicable
to labor — that labor w-^s to be performed by slaves only, and was a
dishonorable undertakine for a gentleman. But reverses of fortune
often overtake us, and those once possessing immense wealth, have
seen it dwindling away without their possessing the power to prevent
it. Slave after slave has been sold till all were gone, the old home-
s'ead divided among creditors, and the once wealthy planter sees around
him a large family of sons and daughters who are dependent on relatives
or friends for a continuation of their gentility. The sons of such as
these, I have here designated as ''Poor Quality." Such young men
as these, I have seen come into the mines where gold lay before them,
and where they seemed determined to retiieve their fortunes by their
own exertions. Unused to labor, or to endure any of the hardships of
life, their tender constitutions were but illy calculated to stand the
hardships attendant on the life of a miner in the Sierra Nevada. They
generally possessed those high, noble principles so proverbial in the
Middle and Southern States — brave, generous and good hearted to a
fault — they soon gained the good will of the old miners, who aided
them in every way they could ; but in theii endeavors to dig for gold,
their weak frames in a short time would sink beneath the toil ; a few
hours per day would be as much as they could work ; and in many
cases sickness would soon prostrate them. I have seen them laboring
for a few moments, and then sit panting for breath for a long time
before they could resume their work. If those who are now bringing
their sons up in idleness and teaching them to despise labor, could but

have seen these sights, and have heard the pitiful expressions of regret
that often escaped from those noble youths, on their ignorance of labor
and bodily weakness, to gain their desires, would change their policy
•without a further lecture on the subject. Jf these lines are ever read
by men who are bringing up their sons in idleness, because the wealth
of this world is at present heaped around them, I v/ould pray of them
to cease so despicable and destructive a policy towards their children.
Teach them to work ; raise them up to honest labor ; for you cannot
foresee the hour that want may make your sons curse you for your
neglect.

A MINER'S BURIAL.

The only religions service I ever saw undertaken in the mines in
1848, was at a miner's funeral on the South Fork. Amongst the
miners was one kno'.vn as " the Parson." Those who were acquainted
with him asserted that the Parson had '*onst" been a "powerful
preacher" in the Eastern States; but digging for gold had greatly
tarnished his Gospel habiliments ; in short, he had become carnal, and
would take a big drink with any of his friends he met. A miner had
died who was much liked, and we determined to give him as respectable
a funeral as circumstances would permit. The Parson was requested
to officiate as minister on the occasion, which he readily assented to,
and soon made his appearance at the camp of the deceased — where a
goodly number were collected, amongst whom tin cups passed swiftly
around, and many a drink went down to the repose of the soul departed.
The Parson never missed a " round," and by the time we got the corpse
to the grave, he had become somewhat "muddled." The grave had
been dug in a flat some hundreds of yards front the camps. After the
body had been placed in the grave, the miners gathered around it, and
the Parson read a long chapter from the Bible, after which he said it
was necessary to sing a Psalm. No hymn book could be procured —
and no one had ever committed a hymn to memory, with the exception
of the Parson, who soon started one to the tune of " Old Hundred."
He got through the first verse, and the first linecf the second and there
stuck. After several ineffectual and comical attempts to " start her"
again, he coolly informed us that the Lord had obliterated from his
memory the balance of that solemn Psalm, but we would go to prayer.
At the order for prayer some remained standing — numbers knelt around
the grave — and one old case sat down, remarking, at the time, that
he " knew when the Old Parson had his steam a little up he was h — 1
on a prayer ; and he was going to take it easy." The Parson had been
praying some ten minutes when some of those kneeling around the
grave commenced examining the dirt that had been thrown up and
found it to be (as they expressed it) "Lousy with gold." This
discovery necessarily created an excitement in the assembly. The
Parson had become " warmed up" and his supplications for ihe soul of
the departed could be heard " Echoing through mountain, hill, and

2,3

dell," when he suddenly stopped — opened one eye— and looked down
to see what was disturbing his hearers, and very coolly enquired,
"Boys what's that"?" and continued, "Gold! by g- — d! — and the
richest kind o' diggins ! — the very dirt vv^e have been looking fori"
The truth flashed across his mind — -then he raised his hand and with a
comic expression of countenance, informed ns that the " congregation
are dismissed," and it was highly necessary that that dirt should be
well tried before we proceeded any farther, and away he "scud" for
his pick and pan.

Suffice it to say, that poor George B — , was not buried there,

but taken irom his rich hole, and a grave made for him " high up the
mountain's side."

PROGRESSION.

liife in California at the present day, marks well the change that a
permanent community has over a floating one. The change in aflairs
with us, has been so great within the last twelve months, that those
who were acquainted with California as she was^ would scarcely know
her as she is. Where we used to build a canvas city in a day, we have
lately taken a whole week, and put them up of wood, stone and brick.
The miner who a few months ago had to pack his kit along almost im-
perceptible paths, can now find in their place wide, well-beaten roads
on which he can be hurried along in splendid coaches, at a rate such as
is here required to keep up with the times- Where a short time ago it
took from two to ten days to make a voyage in a launch up the rivers,
to Sacramento and Stockton, it is now done in as many hours by fine,
comfortable steamers, and the fare and freight charges are also a shade
less by these conveyances. From $30 to $50 had formerly to be paid
for a passage, with the pleasure of fighting mosquitoes for a week, in
an open boat, and the moderate sum of $400 per ton for freight. Our
steamers are now carrying passengers for $5, and freight at $5 to $10
per ton. The smoke of swilt steamers rise like majestic monuments of
commerce, as they ply to and from the Bay and inland towns, bearing
full loads of freight and crowds of passengers. There is nothing more
emblematic of the progressive spirit of the age, than the rapid succes-
sion of improvements in steamboat building in California. The boat of
to-day is superceded by a better one of to-morrow; thus boats that were
" the pride of the slough" six months ago, now look as old and primi-
tive as Noah's Ark. Should you doubt this, just step aboard one of
those floating palaces, the American Eagle, Sophie, Kate Kearney or
H. T. Clay, that " bile" but never " bust," — take a view of their pon-
derous dimensions and consfortable accommodations — their cabins furn-
ished in the highest taste of luxury ; then cast a retrospective glance on
the little steamer Sitka, (the fiist steamer that ever ploughed the waters
of California,) the San Joaquin and the Captain Sutter, and you will
think as I — old things have become new. The runners for these differ-
ent boats will also inform the travelling public, that their respective

boats will beat anything else up and down the rivers, or " bust." Such
a recommendation would rather intimidate a less/as^ people ; but here,
anything that will "beat or bust," is just the thing to suit. Anything
that is fast, with danger or adventure in the undertaking, will be grabbed
at, with a "to h — 1 with the consequences !"

MONTEREY.

Monterey being the centre around which some of the scenes of our
California life is laid, a description of it and the adjacent country may
not be uninteresting here.

It is situated at the head of Monterey bay, on a beautiful plain, which
is scooped out of the pine-clad hills surrounding it. There is not in
California a more picturesque or healthy place. It is one of the oldest
settlen-ents in California, being first settled in 1770. Nearly a century
has passed since the first armed sons of Adam commenced the presidio
or fortification under the banner of Cortez, on the little knoll that over-
looks the placnd waters of its bay. Portions of the remaining walls of
this fortification, and those of the old mission, which were built at the
same time, are still standing. The present church, which now stands
a monument of" times long past," is within the limits of the crumbling
walls of San Carlos de Monterey. To stand amongst these mouldering
ruins causes thoughts of the past and present to roll through our mind ;
we think of those who lived and died within them "long, long ago."
Around the decay of a race nearly past, arise the stately mountains
which adorn the present city of our destined race. Not only on ac-
count of antifjuity and the unparalleled climate and loveliness of old
Monterey, is it made dear to the heart of every true Californian : it is
the old capital oi Alta California. Here the former race who governed
held their councils, and here the pioneers from the interior settlements
flew for protection in the hour of danger.

When our eagle soared aloft to view the goodly land for free-
dom's sons, it was here she first found a resting place, and from her
talons let fly to the western winds our starry flag, beneath whose folds
our brave warriors told a wondering world that Pacific's waves now
washed great America's western bounds. Not only was Monterey the
first place in California that the American flag was hoisted, hot it was
the residence of our first governors, and from out its old walls went
forth the mandates to us to govern ourselves; hither a world was
told to come — that this was Ophir ; and here, too, our model constitu-
tion was framed and signed. New things took from it the name of
Capitol, and removed it to San Jose — and since it was removed from
there, its ancient seat, it has continued to move; but, like the prodigal
son, as soon as its wealth has been spent in foreign lands, in riotous
living, and it has fed on husks of corn amongst swine, it will return
again to its present place in hunger and rags, and be joyfully received
by its father, who grieved for it as one that is dead.

Three miles south of Monteray is the Mission and valley of San

Carmel. This Mission, like all others in California, has ceased to
exist, and its buildings once teeming with busy life, are now a mass of
ruins.

A feeling which cannot be expressed comes over the visitor to these
old Missions ; it is created by a mixture of sorrow and py that is such
as to make its experience a heart-felt pleasure. The old churches are
generally the best buildings, and have defied the decaying hand of time
better than the rest. Their bells, which once sent forth melodious
sounds to call their devotees to prayer, now hang silent. The owl has
made its home where the sacrifice was once daily offered. Where are
the old occupants who used to make these crumbling walls resound with
busy, happy life? They have passed and gone, to make room for those
to whom their lands have been given. The old Mission of Carmel is
built near the sea shore, where the Carmel river enters it. The beauti-
ful valley, the high peaks of the coast range that sorround it, the pine
forest that stretches far to the South, the wild sea that talks in thunder
tones along its rock-bound coast, and the baying of the deep-mouthed
Seal, all tend to make it a romantic retreat for the lover of poetic
scenery.

The valley of Carmel is some fifteen miles in length, of inexhausti-
ble soil, and in a very romantic dell, which is now thickly settled by
hardy California squatters. A remnant of these Indians which once
belonged to the Mission and whose labor built all these improvements,
contiuue to reside on the Mission lands. As an evidence of the purity
and health of Monterey and surrounding country, I may mention the
fact that there are six of these Indians over one hundred years of age ;
two of them, whom age has withered until their frames alone proclaim
them to be human beings, affirm that they were old people, and brought
grand children to the Mission at the time it was built. They are both
still able to go about, and are always found busy at some employment at
their huts.

The Salinas Plain, twelve miles from Monterey, is a beautiful body
of land, twenty miles in its greatest width and about eighty in length,
of unequalled soil, and watered by the Salinas river through its whole
length. Large portions of this land are covered by Spanish grants, and
the remainder is nearly all taken up by pre-emption claims. The
mountains surrounding these plains abound with grizzly bear, deer, and
hate ; in the valley — quail, plover, curlew, snipe and every variety of
geese and ducks are abundant, in their season, on the plains and waters
in the vicinity. In the Carmel river, at certain seasons, salmon and
other fish are found in abundance and the mountain streams leading into
the Bay and Valley, contain brook trout equal in flavor and size to
those of the Alleghenies.

JUDGE LYNCH.

The civilized world may cry down the short but concise code of
Judge Lynch, but I feel confident that every honest man in California

feas Raile-l it as a God blessed evil to them. A depredation was-
committed; the long rifles of the honest beys were slung across their
shoulders, and the depredator was soon ferreted out and brought to
trial before a jury,, where every chance was allowed the accused to prove
himself innocent — if he was found guilty, his punishment was awarded
by the jury, and the sentences whatever they v;ere, immediately put in
execution. Petty thefts and frauds were punished by inflicting on the
culprit from fifty to two hundred lashes with a raw hide on his bare
back, laid on accoiding to the directions in the code. If the offence was
stealing horses, mules, oxen or large amounts of gold dust, death was
always awarded ; and hundreds of the bodies of these rascals who came
to California to steal, because we had no law, now lie rotting in
felons' graves. We were not blessed at that day with statutes as unin-
telligible as a Chinese bible, or with hordes of lawyes, who, for a
pittance, would screen, under the plea of informalities in indictments
of proceedings, villains from just punishment. There were no jails or
prison ships; but if a culprit was taken, he never escaped — money or
influence availed him nothing. If he attempted escape, the unerring
rifle brought him to a sudden halt. I am not an advocate of unlawful
trials by the people; but those who know the purifying influence of
Judge Lynch in 1849, and of the vigilance committee in 1851, will join
"with me in saying that their institution and their firm devotion to the
cause of right, alone saved California from becoming the theatre of
strife and blood-shed unknown before in the history of the world.

Laws to govern us we had none, with the exception of the laM's of
usage, called by those who do not know its purifying influence in a
new population, as Lynch Law. The laws of Mexico were presumed to
exist, but were not enforced but by the consent of all parties concerned,
in civil eases. We had Alcaldes who we elected, or they occupied
their offices by appointment from the Governor. To the decision of
these, trifling disputes were given as final. But if theft, robbery or
murder were committed, we threw down our mining tools, shouldered
our rifles, and the ofl^ending parties were soon on a trial before a jury ;
if he was found guilty, he then and there paid the penalty ; if innocent,
he was dismissed with an admonition. I believe there was but one case
of these high misdemeanors tried in 1848. A Frenchman had become
notorious for horse stealing in the neighborhood of the Dry Diggings —
his propensity for horse and mule flesh, became so great that it attracted
the attention of the miners, and we determined to put a stop to it. He
was soon caught in the very act of horse-stealing, brought in and tried^
and two hours after he was taken, he was dangling between heaven
and earth, at the end of a rope. This severe but just punishment put a
stop to thieving exploits, until 1849.

ADMINISTRATION OF LAW.

Another instance illustrative of the times, was a trial between two
Jews at Carson's Creek. These two sons of Israel had carried on a

■27

ahop in partnership, and had realized a fortune, but in their settlement^
there were twenty-two hundred dollars in dispute between them, and it
was given to the alcalde for settlement, and he referred it to the decisiG®
of a jury. The miners knew that the men had realized their pile from
the labor of others, and were determined that the litigantsshould at
least pay for all the law they received. The first jury disagreed — •
another was called — that also could not decide ; a third was made up,
which came to an agreement, to the effect that the expenses of the
whole trial should first be paid, and then the remainder equally divided
between the two Jews. The bar — not of the court, but of the rum-
mill attached — had been thronged during the day, which bill, of course
was to be paid by the disputants. The bill of costs was soon made up.,
and amounted to eighteen hundred dollars. This the Jews refused to pay,
but the verdict of the jury and the money were both in the hands of tba
alcalde, and he informed them that his oath of oflice compelled him to
execute the jury's decision ; he therefore paid from their bag the cost,
and equally divided between them the remainder. They did not " g®
their way rejoicing," but went off sweating a string of Hebrew curses
which portended no good to the law-givers.

LAWYER'S FEES,

Owing to the mass of beings in the mines in '49; it became necessary
for us to have alcaldes and sherif!s for the different raining districts who
were elected to office by a majority of the miners. They formed courts,
before which culprits were brought ; they also settled disputes arising
^ut of disputed claims. They had no enacted laws t© govern their ac-
tions, but what they thought was right was the law ; yet in most cases
of petty criminal offences and eases of disputes were left to a jury, who
were summoned by the alcalde. The alcalde's fee., in all cases, was
three ounces; sheriff's, two; and each juror one — with the addition of
the pi ice of all the whisky used by the court, jury and witnesses during
the trial ; if it was a criminal offence the prisoner had to foot the bill,
if he was worth it, if not, no pay was required ; and in all other cases
the party had to pungle down the dust in advance, or they got no law.
As an instance of settling small disputes at the alcalde's courts, I will
mention one or two in which T was summoned as a juror : At the Rich
Oulch on the Moquelumne, in the spring of 1849, two Spaniards who
were known to have had great luck in digging gold, had a dispute
about the ownership of an old mule, wortn aoout $20, and applied to
the Alcalde to settle the matter between them; his honor informed
them, tha'. before he could extend the great arm of the law over them
they would each have to 'fork'over three ounces for the expences, which
was done without a murmur — each commenced his harangued as -to the
ownership — not one woxd of which was understood by the court. After
matters had thus progressed for a short time, his honor informed them.,
in good English, that they had better leave it to the decision of a jury.
This was interpreted to them, and they gladly availed themselves of the

offer. Two ounces more were paid in advance to the sheriff, before he
would summon a jury. A jury of twelve men was soon collected, and
the case brought before them. Neither of the parties could produce
evidence thai the mule belonged to them ; and the jury, after hearing
their statements, retired, and soon returned into court with their verdict,
which was thai the plaintiff and defendant pay each an equal shSire of
the cost of court, and then drav) cuts for the mule in dispute. The
alcalde's, sheriff's and juror's fees amounted to twenty ounces, and the
liquor hill to three ounces. This the Spaniards cheerfully paid, drew
straws for the mule, and went on their way rejoicing.

THE FIRST STEAMER.

The arrival of the first steamer in the spring of 1849, was welcomed
by the thunder of cannon and the overjoyed huzzas of delighted thou-
sands. It brought news from the Atlantic states only two months old,
which was the beginning oi the future short communication, when
science and art will almost annihilate time and space. Previous to this
if an outsider was lucky enough to get a newspaper six or seven months
old from the states, he stealthily took himself off and adopted a hermit's
life until he had read it "clai" through, advertisements and all. If he
attempted to read it in a public place he had to take a stand and do it
in a loud, slow and plain manner, or hold it up in a perpendicular po-
sition so as to allow an immense crowd — front and rear — to aid him in
its perusal. Before the advent of steamers on this coast, communication
with the East was via Cape Horn or across the Plains. To receive
answers from the Atlantic states, to letters written here, in ten or twelve
months, was considered a fast line performance, although every exertion
was made by the military authorities to keep up a correspondence by
the shortest route and quickest conveyance possible.

LOVE FOR CALIFORNIA.

Poor thing I No doubt but if evil eyes could be allowed to pry into
every body's letters, that many such loving little epistles might be read.
Many men have been here and made fortunes and left, are now fast re-
turning with their families, or with wives at least, to make this their
permanent home. Comfortable homesteads are now to be met with at
every turn. If a man comes to California and stays two years, he will
never want to leave it. As an illustration of what makes the old stock
return to California, I will relate a conversation verbatim between the
writer and one of the diggers of '49, who has just returned with a fair
bride, and which will also illustrate California etiquette. The last time
we saw each other was at the head of the Calaveras river. He had
been in California seven months, and had made over eight thousand dol-
lars. The diggins he had, had become worked out-, and being unsuc-
cessful in finding others as rich immediately, he was sitting in his camp
cursing California and everything in it, and pronounced it one of the
infernaJrst holes a man ever got into. — From his manner then, T regret-

ed to think that California was about to lose one who would make a good
citizen. He held on until sometime in '50, and started "hum to York
State," where, the sequel shows, he could stand it but six weeks; and
in that time made love to, and married a fair one to share his joys and
sorrows thoough life. He was the last man I ever thought to have seen
returning. When we met, the following salutations and explanations
took place :

Writer—'' Hallo ! is that you?"

Returned — "Wal, it an't nobody else — how are you, old stock!"

W. — "So, so. In the love of God, what brought you back? when
did you come? I never expected to see you here again."

R. — "0, Lord ! I've been back more than a year. Couldn't stand
it there, I'll swear."

W.— " Why ? what was the matter ?"

R. — '' Wal, old cock, the fact is, the people there are so cussed mean,
thai a man who has ever lived in California can't stand it amongst them.
I hadn't hardly landed from the steamer in N. Y., before a perfect
swarm were around me, trying to swindle me out of all, or part of my
dust ; some of them got so very near and kind around rae, that I had to
draw old sixey, and tell them just look down the barrel and see if they
could see anything green in her bottom ! And don't you think, even for
that, I had to 'cut out' or get put in jail. Oh, C — st! such a place you
can't think on."

W. — "Well, it ain't so bad in the country is it?"

R. — "Wus a damn sight ! Even my own relations tried their pretti-
est to get all the dimes away from me. I didn't see anybody that I was
ever acquainted with, who did not want to sell me something, from a
farm down to a d — d old second handed coat^"

W. — "So, you left? what are you at now?"

R. — "Yes ; I got my gal and left them diggins as soon as God would
let me. I've got a ranch up the river now ; got plenty of horses and
cattle, pigs and chickens, raise just what grain and vegetables I please,
got plenty of money, and in fact, I'm as happy as a clam at high tide !"

This is no single instance of this kind — so far from it, that it is a
daily occurrence ; every steamer brings hundreds of the same sort.

GAMBLING IN CALIFORNIA.

As gaming is a promment feature in California Life, and no doubt
carried to a greater extent than in any other part of the world, a short
review of it will not prove amiss.

We who have come from the second families in Virginia, have been
taught to look on gamblers, and those who follow it as a profession, as
little superior to the devil himself. This view of the members of the
black art, may be good and just in other lands, but it is not applicable to
California. To say gaming of any kind is not an evil of the most-to-be-
dreaded description, would be to argue against common sense, and all
iaws of morality. It is an evil — in California has become a necessary

one. It is, here, sanctioned by law, and its professors constitute a large
proportion of the first class of Californian society, and one-fourth of the
entire population of the state gamble to a less or greater extent. Take
the gamblers, that is those who follow it as a profession here, and they
constitute a body of men of noble disposition, free, open hearted, and
generous ; and some of the best improvements in the state have been
made by the gamblers, from the proceeds of many a fool's money. The
state also receives a large revenue from the license imposed on gaming.
To prevent gambling, by making laws for its suppression in California,
would be as useless as it would be to stand in the Golden Gate and
undertake to keep out the tide with a pitch-fork. What a field for
the study of human nature is a gambling-house'? where the tenderest
strings of a man's nature are played upon, where the ])re-eminent and
prevailing dispositions, and the hankeringsof the heart for gold, become
the master passion.

As the first steamer brought the first cargo of foreign masters in the
"mystic art," their annunciatory proceedings in California may serve
to illustrate scenes in a gambling house during the winter of 1848 and
spring of 1849. Previous to this arrival, " monte " was the universal
game, in the cities and mines, interspersed at times with " lump o'gold"
poker. In the mines, especially in thg Stanislaus region, in 1848, I
have seen the Spaniards, men and women, betting freely pounds of gold
dust on a card, and smoking cigaritos until they won or lost, with as much
indifference as if it had been so much gravel. In the coast cities, ( San
Francisco in particular,) millions of dollars were daily staked on monte,
during that winter. The scenes of these places of amusements have
been shifted and a nevt* set of men have come on since then.

It required large capital to become a monte banker, as a small con-
cern would be tapped by almost any rough looking hombre you would
meet during that golden reign. Large banks had their crowds day and
night, at which some rich scenes were to be witnessed. One-half the
betters were men who, a few months previous, would have considered
their characters ruined forever if they had been seen in such plaices;
they were to be seen " pungling her down," with their heads present-
ing a mass of hair and beard that would vie with that of Nebu-
chadnezzar's on his return from his country sojourn spoken of by Dan-
iel; and around which fell in graceful folds portions of the brims of
hard worn " old tiles" from under which the only thing human to be
seen was a "jolly red nose" and a pair of eyes sticking out like a boiled
crab ; Greaserf wrapped in the folds of the everlasting serape, only
watching for a "sure thing," on which to pile down a few pounds of
the " oro," The rather trim appearance of a few business men could
also be seen mixed with the crowd of betters provided the bank was a
" good thing ; " jolly sons of Neptune, who had adopted a country
life in California for convenience sake, could be heard cursing a losing
card ; and occasionally a bag of dust would be passed in by a son of
Africa, who acted as an outsider. A good house would have four or five '
of these tables in full operation in it at once, each with its crowd of

devotees. A bar the whole length of the establishment, was the next
prominent feature, where "old red-eye" v/as under his different
names, issued in a perfect stream to thirsty suckers at fifty cents per
glass. Collected in the corners were small parties, who only loved to
gamble so far as to play " old sledge" for the liquors, until from their
winnings they became so essentially " corned" as to make a hard plank
on the ground, when they retired to rest, appear " soft as downy pillows
are." Groups collected around old tofers to hear them sing songs. A
pair of dirty lumps of raoitality, who had met after a long absence,
commenced wetting the ties of "Old Acquaintance," and they had
become so loving as to hug and kiss each other. A poor devil who had
been on a bender too long, might be seen out-shaking Belshazzar, and
trying to hide from things more dreadful than " Mene Tekel," which
he thought he could see upon the walls. A few overpowered by the
fatigues of the place piled up in a corner completed this faint picture of
a California gambling house in 1848.

During the reign of this state of affairs, the professors before men-
tioned made their appearance from the decks of " California." The
billiard rooms in Monterey were the stages on which they made their
debut in to El Dorado. That quaint old place which had seen many a
little old fashioned monte bank give away before the power of long
bags of dust, was made to resound with a voice which told us plainly
that old things must change. These gents brought new games ; the
billiard tables were stripped of their cloths, and converted into tables
for the different games, and stands for those who wanted to auction off
extra clothing, guns, pistols, and the most approved Bowie knives. —
Monte, roulette, faro, ABC, twenty-one, and the sweat-cloth, had
their representatives, who ( a new fashion at the time,) praised their
different ounce catchers up in something after this style : Here, gentle-
men, is the monte bank that will stand you a " rip;" walk up, you
you chaps with the long bags o' dust ; jest bet what you please — it'll
all be paid ; pungle 'er down pungle-e?" "Here you good hearted
fellows is the man, " vid de weel" — brought this 'erefixens all the way
from home jest to give ye someting to amuse you ; this, genteels, is vat
you calls roulette, the only game vat pays twenty-six times for one;
you can jest bet where you please — on any number, column, red or
black side, or on the eagle bird ; walk up, gentlemen, and make your
bets — if you think I would cheat why you can jest turn the wheel and
roll the ball yourselves." Twenty-one would have its devotee using
his powers to increase the size of his circle of betters. Faro would be
extolled for its age and respectability, and the only fair game in the
house, the dealer having no earthly advantage but the splits. The man
who had the sweat-cloth being a genius of the society whose members
are known as " one of 'em," held a crowd around him, he was one of
the comic characters we see at times, who come on the stage in this
great drama of life and divert the lookers-on for a season, and then pass
off. The inside of the house being full, he had to establish himself
under the portico in front. The rainy season was not over, and the

gentle showers which we see falling here at times, were descending in
soaking torrents. In order to allow his betters a fair chance, he wa^
standing out-side directly under the droppings of the eaves that were
running in perfect streams over his tarpaulin hat and India rubber coat.
His cloth was spread on a bench in front of him under shelter, to which
he called the attention of the outsiders by slapping his sides and imitat-
ing the crowing of a cock ; and in imitation of scenes in other lands,
he would, with comic gestures and a stentorian voice, cry "oysters!
fresh clams ! hot corn ! " and many other kinds of commodities that
California had never been blessed with. This idea took — soon a
perfect crowd surrounded him, when he commenced to inform them
that he had for his own amusement, and for the benefit of the community
at large, opened the good little game of "sweat," a little republican
game that all could play at — "jist walk up, ride up, tumble up, any
way to get up ; then stake up to win a fortune — I don't belong to the
aristocracy — I don't ; I'm jist a plain old devil like all of you — I am!
and if you jest bet on old Ned's little game, you'll win — you will!
and if any one gets broke, I'll give him money to get a big drink,
sure! " At this offer an homhre stuck down a quarter of a dollar and
lost; " There, Uncle Ned," says he, " I'm busted — just give us the
four bitts for the liquor!" Ned, to make his promise good, forked
over the half dollar, (the price of a drink,) remarking, "you got me
there, a leetle — you did ! " And thus continuing, he kept the crowd
around him in a continual state of merriment. To use one of Ned's
phrases, " when them banks left, they were none of them broke — they
wer'nt."

THE CALIFORNIA RANCHO.

Under the blessings of all the beauties and fertility of soil which
nature could grant around Monterey, it is not to be wondered at that its
inhabitants were happy ; and a picture or two of life in 1847 in its
vicinity, will give the reader an idea of " a ranchero's life " in Califor-
nia. The word rar,cho means here what we term farm in the East.
But there is a great difference in size, ranches ranging from one to
thirty miles square according to the grants made to applicants from the
Mexican government. These lands were chosen with the sole view of
using them as grazing farms ; they generally contain, however some of
the most choice portions of our agricultural lands. In most instances
the owners of these ranches have erected large one-story adobe houses,
in which lumber of any kind form but a small item of their composition,
being covered with rudely made tile, and having the "ground for a
floor." But few of these buildings have wooden doors or glass win-
dows, a dried bullock's hide being used for the purpose of closing the
apertures ; such a thing as a chimney was never thought of in their
construction.

The out-buildings consisted of rude huts, erected for the Indians, who
were always found on the ranches, and who are, in fact, slaves to the

rancheros, but under the mild name of Peon. The principal feature
amongst these structures is the corral, a pen on which much labor is
always expended. In their erection large and strong timbers, some
eight or ten feet in length, are used, the ends being sunk side by side
in the ground.

Near these establishments, surrounded by a rude fence, is generally
a fine piece of bottom land, well watered, called a mil'pre, which is used
for the purpose of cultivating small quantities of corn, beans (frijoks,)
pumpkins, melons, and red pepper {Chili Colorado,) — and many raise
considerable quantities of wheat and barley. The hills and valleys in
the vicinity v.'ere covered with horses, cattle and sheep — many of the
rancheros owning from ten to fifteen thousand head of horned cattle,
from five hundred to two thousand head of horses, and sheep innumera-
ble. Their implements of husbandry consisted of the California cart,
comic old hoes, and a plow invented in the days of Moses. This plow
is made by simply taking the fork of a tree, cutting one prong short for
the stalk and leaving the other long for the beam ; the stalk is sharp-
ened and plated with a small piece of iron ; the beam is left some twelve
feet long, the end of which is made fast to the yoke on the oxen ; the
lower portions of the timber being left sufficiently long, forms the
handle by which the unv^^ieldy machine is kept erect. To work this
" land divider," one yoke of oxen and two Indians are necessary, one
of the Indians driving and the other holding the plow. Swarms of
chickens and dogs, mixed amongst the whole make up the outside
pictuie. lire ranches from their size, necessarily placed the residences
of the old settlers far apart, and each formed a little community within
itself.

The reader ( particularly one of the sovereigns of the United States,)
who has been used to all the comforts and conveniences which the arts
and sciences can render to man, will conclude from this picture that
pleasure and comfort were rather scarce commodities in the good old
times of " Life in California ; " this, at least, was my impression about
those days. If happiness, in the full sense of the word, was ever
enjoyed by mankind, it was by the old settlers and inhabitants here
before the discovery of gold brought our present mixed male population
amongst us. Let us look at the life of one of the old rancheros, as an
illustration of the whole: He is a perfect model of health, if anything
generally tending too much to corpulency. His dress is in keeping with
the climate and the semi-civilized age of the country he lives in ; his
hat, composed of felt, made thick and strong, covered with black oiled
silk, has a tremendous brim, with a sugar-loaf ciown of enormous
height; from its bullet proof properties, it protects him fiom winter's
rains and summer's suns, and likewise serves as a formidable shield in
an encounter with the knife — in a modrn phrase, " it is a hard old tile."
His shirt with its immense collar made of the fiest material, has the
collar and bosom fantastically worked with lace and ruffles. His
jacket is fashioned a la man-of-war, and made of fine black or blue
cloth. Pantaloons are of fine white cotton, made in Turkish style,

immense legs, the bottoms of vvliich are confined as high as the kites
by long white stockings being drawn o^er thein ; a pair of caJzones^
made of fine material and faced \vitii scalloped cotton velvet of a dif-
ferent color from the body, opened up the sides and adorned with silver
buttons, is drawn over the pantaloons, and usually left open as high a»
the knee, and the whole fastened around the waist by a fancy colored
scarf. The shoes are made light, of parii-colored buck or elk skin
tanned by themselves. A gaudy colored scrape, that is always carried
either by thrusting the head through the centre and letting it hang
around the person, or carelessly throwing it over ihe shoulder or arm.
His complexion, owing to the mixture of Castilian and Indian blood, is
what one of our western boys would term *' yaller," but on his olive-
colored face sits forever the smiles of contentment and ease. Encase
his legs in fancy-worked leather leggins, place on his heels a pair of
immen-se spurs, and mount him on one of his finest horses, caparisoned
with a silver mounted sjddle and bridle, give him a paper cigar, a lasso
in his hand, and you have before you a ranchero — ''One of the olden
time."

Having described the ranchero and his rancho, we must pay him a
visit to know how he lives. The visitor was welcomed to one of these
old ranches v/ith an unfeigned cordiality tliat has now nearly passed
away. You would be embraced by himself and wife, and told by him
that his ranches, horses, wife, children, servants and all he possessed
weie at his service, as long as you wished to stay. The whole family
also joined in this welcoming. The " wiiole family " in California,
means a great many persons, for it is no unusual occurrence to find
twenty-five or thirty children the offspring of two parents, the mother
looking neaily as young as her oldest daughter. The best the rancho
afforded was provided for the visitor, especially if a stranger. The
fattest of tiie flocks were always killed for food, the choicest pieces
taken for the family, flesh cooked in different ways, iortillos,frijoles and
tea constituted the general subsistence; milk and cheese were also in
abundance. The meat- of fat cows was always hanging on a line to
dry, and a loom filled with jerked beef, so that the hungry about him
might eat and be filled. The month of August, at wdiich time animals
of all kinds are fattest, vi'as devoted on the ranches to killing cattle for
^fieir hides and tallow. From five hundred to two thousand were yearly
killed, their hides dried, the principal paitof their tallow tryed out, the
lean portions of the carcass cut in strips and dried, and the remainder
boiled down and converted into soap. The hides, tallow, and soap,
ihrmed the exports of the country, and were the only means for the-
ranchero to convert his stock into money. Yankee trading vessels
were always on the coast to barter goods or pay cash for these articles
of export. Bullock hides of good quality were worth $1 50 in cashj.
or t^2 00 in goods. Good hides at that day, in fact, passed current for
the purposes of internal commerce — they were California shinphsters,,
and they were the only circulating medium, not coined, ever used with
115. The avcvnge price paid fur cattle thus sold, amounted to about six

<ioilars per head. Willi the proceeds of these yearly sales, the
raiieherc purchased fine and gaudy clothing- for himself and family, and
a coarser supply for the Indians in his employ, and also fancy horse
equipage f(u- himself and vaqiieros, as the height of a Californian's
ambition, consisted in being superbly mounted. Thus, surrounded by
plenty, blessed with health, money at command, no sheriff or tax-
gathfrer to make professional calls on them, in the midst of their happy
children, they passed their lime amongst their ftocks, breathing the
balmy air which is always laden by the fragrance irom the f!ower-clad
plains. They may be said to have sung and danced their time away.
Pic-nic parties were frequent, to which the young and old repaired, and
made the hills and dells in the wild woods ring with the merry peals of
laughter ; fandangoes were also of frequent occurrence, and the sound
of the violin and guitar scarcely ever died away at the old homesteads.
After skimming over the broa I plains on their fine horses during the
day, they joined in the giddy waltz at night. It was of no unusual
•occurrence to see the little black-eyed girl of seven or eight summers,
and her great grandmother going through the intricacies of a Spanish
dance together.

THE DIGGER INDIAN.

The only thing that can be called human in the appearance of the dig-
ger Indians of the Sierra Nevada is their resemblance to the sons of
Adam. I have made these class of beings a study and in them I find
but few traits belonging to the human family.

In the early days of gold digging these Indians looked on in wonder
■at the exertions of the white man to procure from the rivers and gulches
things not to be eaten, bui they, following the example of the whites,
•soon procured some for themselves and found that they could barter it
for provisions and clothes. Indians were at wt)rk for miners and others,
receiving in payment for their week's work an old shirt or hankerchief.
The wild tribes were soon mingled amongst the whites in all the dig-
gings. They came in from the bug and acoi^n hunting grounds, naked
as nature had made them. Beef distributed amongst them had an at~
tiaction to bring them to the tents of the traders, whose slaves, in a
manner, they became. All the gold they got was spent for such things
as they took a fancy for. In their first trades, all they had in their pos-
session was given, or offered, for any gewgaw that struck their iaiicy,
as they had no idea of the value of gold. Thus it was th-at traders
often received for a gaudy colored handkerchief, a fancy sivivig of beads,
or a red sash, from fifty to five hundred dollars. Whatever amount of
gold was in the possession of the Indian, he freely otlxired for such
things as he pointed at. If it was accepted, he would snatch the article
up, put down his money, and go off gabbering like a monke5^ at the
idea of the manner in which he had /oo/rrf the white maii. ]3ut this
-state of things did not continue long. Old Mission Indians informed
them that the whites sold to each o^h.er bv (n/jnces snd pesos, and that
thev could sel more if thev would have their ?ok! weighed. This

opened the eyes of the traders, and some of them procured scales and
weights for the accommodation of the Indian while on his shopping ex-
peditions. Whether the Indian gained by the operation is rather doubt-
ful. Indian prices of goods ranged about as follows ; cotton cloth or
calico $20 per yard, plain white blankets six ounces, scrapes from
twenty to thirty ounces each, beads equal weight in gold, handkerchiefs
and sashes two ounces each, beef $5 per pound, and every thing in like
proportion. It was not these prices only that they had to pay, as in
settling, when the scales and weights were brought out, to look at the
slugs of lead called pesos and ounces, and the arrangement of the scales
was enough to make a white man blush ; yet Mr. Indian regarded it as
perfectly fai/, and would pile on gold until the scales would exactly
balance, using every precaution that he gave no more than the precise
weight.

It was laughable to see the manner in which their fancy prompted
them to adorn themselves. Some taking a fancy to shirts, might be seen
parading around with a dozen on at a time ; others decorated themselves
with red sashes and fancy handkerchiefs until they resembled a decorated
telegraph ; while another portion thought a Spanish hat sufficient to
cover their nakedness — and in many instances the wearer of the hat
would have his naked heels adorned with a huge pair of California
spurs.

In July and August, '48, some of the settlers moved their families
into the mines, and the face of the American female was a new source
of wonder to the Indian race, and attracted them in large numbers.
Amongst the admirers of the white women, was one tall, fleshy, well-
formed Indian, who was as naked as he came into the world, and he
seemed backward in going near them on this account, but would stand
behind a tree at some distance off, and peeping from behind it, would
admire them for hours at a time. At length he seemed to have formed
a resolution to dress himself, so that he conld approach nearer to them.
For this purpose he went diligently to work with a sharp stick, digging
gold. He forsook his tribe, and was forever to be found with white men.
An everlasting smile was on his face, and he appeared to be the soul of
good nature. In a week he had got a pile sufficient to dress himself u])
and he wended his way to the camp of a trader : here he purchased a
uniform jacket, such as had been worn by Col. Stevenson's regiment, a
handkerchief, and a pair of socks, and then commenced to dress up-
The jacket was A No. 1, and the man No. 4. When he buttoned it up
his flesh stood out in a roll around below it ; the collar was so tight
that it caused the veins in his forehead to swell to the size of a man's
finger ; he then drew on his socks, and made direct for the camps of
the American ladies. The jacket and socks were all that covered him,
the rest of his person being in a state of nature ; but he felt sufficiently
dressed for an interview with the ladies, and he was soon an)ongst
them, showing hirnsoif off to the best advantage — but the pride of
huro.H) iiatme is uWm suiTicicnilv lowered-— oven tliat of digger Indians —

for our beau was unceremoniously kicked from the presence of the fair
sex, by a very rough looking old dad.

WAGONS AND FREIGHT.

. At the time California was first occupied by the Americans, the only
means of transportation was by California carts, and pack mules. The
California curt is a curiosity to the American, when he first sees it ; it
is, like the California plough, an Egyptian invention, and may be
classed among the relics of antiquity To those wlio have never seen
one, a short description may not be uninteresting. The wheels are
made by cutting blocks from the butts of the bultonwood tree, are about
twenty inches in thickness, and from two to four feet in diameter;
through this, a hole for the axle is made, about six inches in diameter ;
ihe axletree is made of a heavy oak timber ; the t(mgue or pole is
usually about fifteen feet in length, made of four by ten scantling; to
this is framed the heads of timbers of like size with the pole ; ihe body
or box is mads of small poles, arranged around tiie bed, like a cage.
In these unwieldy things, the rancheros transported to the sea-coast
their hides and tallow, and, lined with raw hides, they could transport
barley or wheat ; or, by putting some beds in the bottom, and covering
the top with a quilt or sheet, it was converted into a pleasure carriage,
in which the Dons transported their lady friends to all places of amuse-
ment, or made journeys of business. On these excursions, the caraia
is usually drawn by five or six yokes of oxen, driven by three or four
Indians. The male portion of the family, mounted on fine horses, acted
as escorts of honor, and ths whole caravan was usually set off by from
thirty to forty half-starved dogs. With the exception of the few Amer-
ican wagons brought over by the emigrants, these carts were the only
locomotive power we had, and long trains of them could be continually
seen on the roads leading from the southern country to the mines, from
which they never returned, aud which, in many cases, they never
reached, as the numerous wrecks along the road testified. The speed
of these machines was about iwelve miles a day, provided they had not
to stop to make new axletrees, which had usually to be done once per
day, at least This means of transportation could not be depended
upon, for taking supplies into the mines , and those having American
wagons would not commence making roads and hauling in supplies,
while they could make from one to five hundred dollars per day by
mining ; and the only means for some time used, was by pack mules.
The price for transportation in launches on the rivers, from San Fran-
cisco to Sutter's Embarcadero, was from 50 to 75 cents a pound, and
from there to the mines, it was near the same price. Owing to the
large supply usually taken in at fust by the miners, there was not much
transportation required until the winter of '48 and spring of '49, when
the price of hauling from Stockton or Sacramento to the mines, ranged
from $1 to $1 25 per pound. Provisions, in consequence, had to raise
accordingly, and $200 for a bullock, $800 per barrel for flour, and $400

per huiKire;! pounds fur sunar. coffee, and pork, were the prices we had
10 pay. Tliesf.' prices may soaud like impossibilities to miners of ihe
present day — T speak trutii. A {Treat chang-e h.as come over the scene
— the times that were are now no more ; gold is as plenty, hut not as
easily got. Tn those times, we picked it up from the top of the earth ;
now, it is deep beneath tiie hillsj that hidden treasures are found.

THE PIONEErvS.

The foreigners of California, who had been in it for several yeais,
were married to daughters of old rancheros, and generally rich and
happy. The lestraints of refined society and the bonds of civilization
which they were used to in other lands, were here thrown off, and life
and the pleasures of this world became doubly dear to them ; their na-
tural shrewdness gave them advantage over the native population that
proved so beneficial as soon to place them in possession of equal wealth
with their benefactors. Those who had been but a few years here,
principally hunters and trappers, continued to live a free, roaming life.
Life in California, with them, might be termed the essence of human
liberty. The climate being that of perpetual spring, the hills and
plains were as comfortable residences for them at all times, with the ad-
dition of a tent or lodge, as they could desiie : they spent their time in
hunting sea otter, (with which the coast abounds,) beaver, bear and
deer. The skin of the sea otter was worth here $40 each, and were
purchased for the China trade; bear and deer skins and bear's oil com-
manded good prices, and were purchased by the trading vessels on the
coast. Monterey was the principal trading post for them, to which their
furs were biougbt and sold. With the money thus obtained, they pur-
chased such necessaries as they needed in the mountains, of which
whisky formed no small item. After their purchases were made, they
then indulged in a good old fashioned irolic, until the remainder of their
money was gone — they cui'sed all things civilized, and left for the moun-
tains again.

Of all the human family on earth, there are none to excel the hunter
and trapper of the American continent in deeds of noble daring and
personal bravery. Amongst hostile tribes of savages he has pierced the
depths of the wilderness, thousands of miles in advance of civilization ;
alone he has set his traps on the inlets that form the heads of the Mis-
sissippi, Missouri and Columbia rivers ; fearless alike of the dangers
from njan or beast, he has pitched his lodge in the deepest recesses of
the Rocky Mountains and the ice-bound shores of the northern lakes.
And here, in California, even in advance of the Cross, he was to be
found, hunting the fur-clad animals on the waves of the Pacific, or in
Nevada's snow-capped hills.

To know how these pioneers enjoyed " Life in California," we must
go to their homes in the forest. Far from any settlement, they pitched
their lodges, or built a rude hut on some pure mountain stream, sur-
rounded by grovcy of timber. In the red wood forests, found in the

heads of most of tlie vallics rnukino- in from the coast, those hantin/^
oiter, deer, and bear, jreiierally took up their residences. Here, free
from the trammels of law, or restraints of refined associations, and
knowinf*- nothing- of " man's inhumanity to man," they enjoyed the
heart's pleasures thai alone can be found in the picturesque solitudes of
the mountain's depths. There is an eimobling lesson which is learned
in the wilderness by the mountaineer of America, that places him, in
principle, al)ove the rest of mankind. From the dangers that surround
him at all times, he has been taught to look on them, and even on death
itself, with cold indifference. Fear is a word to which they know no
meaning ; and their rifles are ever ready to repel infringements or im-
})Osition on their liberties. They learn from the great book of nature
spread out before them, the existence of one more great than they — of
one Eternal Being, who almost speaks to man, while he is surrounded
by the greatness of His works, on which the stillness of the wilderness
has been unbroken through countless ages. If the human heart longs
to hold communion with Heaven's King, it is not to be found in gor-
geous temples, adorned with glittering tapestry, built an idst piles of
palaces inhabited by licentious man ; not where crowds of the sons and
daughters of earth have adorned for gaudy show ; whose hearts are
filled with wrangling ambitions, even as they kneel on downy cushions,
before altars adorned in costly array ; not amid the strains of earthly
music, and clouds of incense from burning censors, can the heart ot
man be humbled to adore an unseen Ruler! But go to the homes and
haunts of the mountaineer, in the lone forest, where the grandeur of
Heaven's architecture surrounds you ; where the music comes from
babbling brooks, and songs of sportive birds, where the air you breathe
is laden with the sweet perfumes from the flower-clad hills and vales
around, which arise as a befitting incense for adoration ; where the
cloud-capped peaks of the mountains ever point into the azure vault
above, and tell the heart there is a God. For this great Being, the
mountaineer alone has veneration. They hold in derision, anything
like a government which attempts to check them in the full enjoyment
of their actions ; and they hold in contempt such things as officers of
the law, and the members of refined society ; and the life of ;i moun-
taineer in California may be said to have been one of independent hap-
piness not to be met with elsewhere.

THE AGUE.

In the fall of 1848, portions of the northern mines were unusually
sickly, and those who remained on the rivers during August and Sep-
tember of that year (if they were not too lazy to shake) had the fever
and ague. A man who got sick suffered ; there was no shelter for him,
no attention paid to his wants — nor could medical aid, in many in-
stances, be procured. Thus situated, suflering from disease and neglect,
exposed to the hot sun during the day, and to the cold at night, many
died. I met a poor fellow- from Feather river, who w-as trying to reach

-10

Sutter's Fort ; his teeth were chattering, and his whole frame was in 3
pleasing shake. On enquiry, he informed me that every body on the
river was as bad as he was, and that he only left heaiuse the pine bushes
liad taken the ager, and were dying so fast that he thought he had better
make his escape."

A MONEYED NIGGER.

I remember seeing the captain of a brig on the beach at San Fran-
cisco, who had a crew, with the exception of a cook. He met a negro,
and asked him if he wished to go as cook on his brig. The negro,
after cocking liis hat on the side of his head, and bringing his arms
akimbo, coolly inquired the wages offered. The captain informed him
that ten dollars per day was as much as he could afford. The negro, at
this offer, burst into a loud laugh, and informed the captain " Dat if de
capten wished to hire heseff out for twenty dollars a day to fill dat occu-
pation, jes walk up to de restaurant, and he would set him to work
immediently."

A JEW IN THE MINES.

Amongst our population of that golden day, we had one Jew. The
old miners will ever remember Dutch John. When I arrived in the
diggings, old friends hailed from every side, and an invitation was soor.
given all hands to go down to Dutch John's and take a hig drink. As
John's store was about a fair sample of the trading establishments of
the day, a shoit description may not be uninteresting :

The buildings like all others then used, consisted of brush cut from
the closest trees ; his stock of goods, two boxes of crckers, a few boxes
of sardines, a few knives, (samples of every pattern ever made,) a half
box of tobacco, and two barrels of the youngest whiskey 1 had ever
tasted. The counter was the head of an empty barrel, set off with a
broken tumbler, tin cup, and a junk bottle of the ardent. Scales and
weights were not much then in use, and John's store had none. A
drink was paid for by his taking ^ pinch of gold dust with his thumb
and fore-finger from the miner's bag, or sorting out a lump the size and
value of a dollar, according to Jewish ideas of such things. Before
taking the pinch from the bag, John's finger and thumb could be
seen sliding down his throat (as far as the balance of the hand would
permit) for the purpose of covering them with saliva, to make the gold
slick, and he then thrust it into the miners pile. The amonut of such
a pinch was from four to eight dollars ! " Got and Himmcl,^^ John: if
we have accounts to settle in the next world, wont the clerks have a time
of it with yours! This mode of setthng was looked upon rather as a
source of fun for the miners, than as an imposition.

CALIFORNIA A FAST COUNTRY.

There is a fast mode of doing business in California, which had to
be adopted, to keep up with the times. As an illustration of the short

talk business habits to be met with in our cities, towns, and elsewhere^
is a conversation held between the worthy captain of a trading vessel
and a boatnman on the Stockton slough, some time ago. The trading
vessel and her captain were making their first voyage to the thriving
city of Stockton. Just as they entered the slough, they were met by a
gentleman in a small boat, whh his dog and gun, going to the marshes
to pass a few hours (snatched from business pursuits) in killing ducks,
when the following dialogue occurred :

Captain — Boat ahoy !

Gen^— Hillo !

Captain — How far to Stockton ? How deep and wide is the creek 1
What is the price of flour? What dog is that "? What '11 you take for
your gun %

Gent — Three miles; twenty feet by seventy yards; twenty-two dol-
lars, and rising ; the dog aint mine, and the gun aint for sale.

Business is often transacted to the amount of thousands of dollars by
merchants and traders, in just about the same short-handed manner of
conversation. We are a/as^ people. If an incendiary sets fire to one
of onx fast-built cities, containing fifteen or twenty thousand inhabitants,
and burns it up in ^fast manner, we go to work and rebuild it in fifteen
or twenty days, in a superior style ; an undertaking that may appear to
the balance of slow creation as di. fast job, fasthj done, by a d — d fast
people. If Q. fast rain fall and raise the gold-sand rivers so fast as to
wash away the dams and other improvements built on them by our fast
working miners, they are again rebuilt in a firmer and faster manner
than before. Our farmers raise crops of grain and vegetables faster,
wiiich they se]\fast, at faster rates than any portion of the fast world
we live in. We now hu.we fast steamboats, fast horses, fast express
lines, and some of the fastest " hombres^^ that can be met with ; and in
fact it requires a faster pen than mine to detail the fast way in which
fortunes are made here. We have seen, for the last four years, people
coming into the country fast; and for a time they went out of it fast.
But now there are so many who like the fast place, that they have de-
termined to remain fast in it for life. If an hombre gets tired of his
fast life, just let him steal someihing, and he can get a free passage out
of \h\sfast world on the California Lynch & Co. ''s fast line.

THE FIRST LEGISLATURE.

San Jose was a wicked place during the winter of 1849 and '50. It
was not only wicked on account of the unrestrained use of wine, women
and gaming, but then there was so many little comical plans at work
all the time, to worm the cash out of the dear unsuspecting people for
the officers in power. On my arrival in the capitol there appeared to be
a thick whispering in the air, a foetid smell perceptible, and when th^
breeze would stir the polluted atmosphere, broken sentences were to be
heard, such as — " Ten thousand dollars for . " " Eight thou-
sand for . " " Seven thousand for , " and " Five h»n-

dred to each . " " Twenty-two dollars and four bits, at least,

per day — ha, ha, ha, " and other chopped off sentences, apparently
conning from a bacchanalian feast, would intrude themselves upon the
ear; such as "gentlennen of the (hie) third house, I rise to (hie, hie,)
— point of order. " " pass another basket of the anchor brand, " "how
much, sir, do you suppose it will cost us to get that measure through 1 "
" We wont go home till morning, till day-light does appear. " Such
mysterious sounds must have a source, at least so thought the writer^
and as the State House was the most likely place to- learn public and
secret things, thither I went. When I entered the hall of the second
house of our first honorable Legislature, who do you think I saw
there, in all majestic pomposity^ Why gentle reader the devil! yes,
belzebub himself. The secret was out, the mysterious whispers in the
air were explained — I knew it was he from his personal appearance —
and the company he kept. He was seated at the opposite end of the
hall to that of the Speaker; in the centre of his dear children, the
sweet babes of the third House. There was nothing unusual in his
appearance except his coat and nose ; in the description of which the
reader may see his lordship as plain as I did. His coat was of fustian,
fashioned a la sack, with immense pockets on either side, and many
others in different parts of it, of smaller dimensions. The large
pockets appeared to be inexhaustible liquor stores, as all the members of
the three houses seemed to draw continually from them. Protruding
from the smaller receptacles, in this noble garment, might be seen the
heading of different bills, his lordship wanted to present, and in one
was a sample of state scrip — an article he had opportunely thought of,
for the benefit of his humble servants. His nose was the greatest
feature to be seen during the session of that, and all subsequent Legis-
latures of this glorious State. It was made of gold, and had to be the
length of the hall so as to touch up each honorable member, or at least
a majority of them. To make this appendage appear acceptable and its
owner bearable it had divers fine specimens stuck on different parts of
it, and at intervals it was graced by sundry bags of dust, throu^n
carelessly across its desiiable proportions. You can readily imagine
thai a smeller of this description would have a great influence on almost
any body of gentlemen, even those of very strong minds. As hard a
nose as this, must come outof avery^hard face ; and this old gentleman's
as well as I can recollect, resembled a pile of black trap-rock.

This being a new feature in legislation to any 1 had read of, or seen,
I was curious to know how it worked, and so sat and witnessed the
proceedings for a time. It was evident that the honorable members had
to make a raise to pay themselves and all the officials, as ^long bills for
board and liquor were daily being presented. The Treasurer had
" nara dime" to pay out, and the question first to be discussed was a
financial one. Money lenders were plenty, and the good people of
California could have borrowed half a million at ten per cent per month,
payable in ten years. This offer was made to the honorable body in
open session, but as soon as it was brought up for consideration, I saw

the use the long nose was put to. To have accepted this offer would
have greased the wheels of government in too plain a manner, and
would have allowed the people to have kept the machine moving too
glibly and would not have allowed the babes of his satanic majesty a
chance to speculate in scrip, so the gentle shake of the golden snout
quieted the clamor, and from the pocket of his lordship's old coat, came
forth a more savory and convenient plan in the shape of a bundle of
pretty papers that only bore thirty-six per cent, interest, and could be
redeemed at any time.

When the bill to issue scrip came up, one hard-listed member had the
audacity to rise, and ask Mr. Speaker if that " are warn't a little agin
the constitution. " The words vi'ere hardly out of him, before the long
nose WIS tickling his cheek ; the specimens rattled, and bags o' dust
slid up and down before his delighted eyes to such a degree, tnat he
settled back in his seat. The idea of the State making so much money
in one day, so tickled the honorable members, that the bill to issue State
shin plasters went through both houses, snapping and cracking like a
burning hemlock plank. These papers passed for a few days at par,
then fell a " leetle — " just twenty-five per cent; — only to try the thing.
Members and feeders out of the crib, began to wear long faces at this
state of things ; but Nosey soon showed them by figures that to raise
their pay a few dimes, it would make the sum of difference come out
just even. And it was a wonder to see with what grace his Satanic
Majesty handed out the fee and sal.iry bills from his great coat pocket,
in which the members were allowed the modest sum of ticenty-two and
a half dollars per diem ! Those bills passed, which was another great
blessing to the dear people, which the shin-plaster system brought about.
Having seen the legislative elephant sufficiently, and was about leaving,
T saw Mr. Devil hunting up the " Foreign Miner's Tax" bill, and I
hurried off to say a few Ave Marias for my own salvation.

When the elders of the people gathered together again in 1850, he-
hold ! Satan went also and took his seat amongst them. His great
golden nose had its old influence, and the specimens and bags o' dust
did marvellously work upon it. When he saw the effects his proboscis
had in certain water lot and usuiy bills, he became prjud of heart, and
desired to try his old offer of broad lands to make them fall down and
worship him. We read in the good book of his Satanic Majesty offer-
ing our Saviour all the kingdoms of the earth, if he would fall down
and worship him; but His Honor failed in the speculation. Not so
with his California undertaking ; he told the great wise heads that San
.lose was too mean a place for such devout servants to stay in ; and he
took many of them up into a high mountain, even into a high peak of
the coast range, and showed unto them all his dominions round about.
Some looked with longing eyes to the land of the mountain king — even
to Monterey. But he said unto them, " Go not there, my children, for
honey and wine are scarce in that land, and the frail daughters of Eve
dwell not there." Being sorely tempted, they looked on the great val-

ley where they had dwelt, even the valley of Santa Clara, and appeared
loth to leave it. In those days there dwelt in the land of Sonoma a
goodly man, whose name was Vallejo — a man devout and just, and one
who feared God and served the Israelites — and the devil tempted him.
Being- sorely pressed by the evil one, he was tempted to scatter many
pieces of gold, even half a million of pesos amongst the wild oats that
grew upon the mountains, where the elders of the land could go and
gather them. And the devil showed them this goodly place, near unto
the great waters, in the land of Vallejo, where the gold was sowed,
and where the elders who followed, saw it. They all fell down and
worshipped him, saying, " Oh, good and just devil, thou hast ever been
near unto us in the hour of our need, thy glorious snout hath ever
directed our paths aright ; and now thou hast shown us a goodly land,
and we will go and dwell therein.'" And behold! when the summer
came, to say the month of June, they moved the high priest of the
people, and his household, with the tables of stone whereon the laws
were written, and the great ark, wherein the treasures of the people
were wont to be kept, from the palaces in the great valley of Santa
Clara unto the bleak hills that the elders had chosen, and did there
pitch tents wherein they might dwell, for the Temjple for their reception
was not yet built.

When the elders were again to assemble in '51, the devil was sorely
pressed for a place for their gathering ; but he gathered them together
in our great city, to which the merchants of the earth are wont to bring
their merchandise, even the city of San Francisco, and there chartered
one of the fiery vessels that go into the seas, the ark Empire, to ferry
them across to the land chosen for them. This land was not pleasant
to look upon,, and the elders pressed the devil hard to remove them,
who listened to their gricvings, and determined to take them unto a
kindly place, where all their heads should become dead ones. And the
place of his choice was the great c;ty of Sacramento. The ark Em-
pire having been an ark of safety to the elders during the stay in that
land, was again seen ploughing up the great waters, with the high
priest and all the elders within her, which did sorely grieve the good
man, even him who had sown the gold upon the hill, and even a wid-
ow's tears were shed on their departure.

In that goodly city to. which they went, the rains fell and the floods
arose, but they heeded it not, for the devil was with them, with his
nose as bright and long as ever it was, and there he could be seen haul-
ing from his pocket bills for the sale of all the lands that a kind high
priest had given unto the little children for an inheritance forever.
Cooley bills, and bills for a tax on labor, are also held within his bird-
like, sinewy iiands. And so bold has he become, that he has even
dared to meddle wiih the free press of our people, and comes to take
his seat, with his pockets filled with printers' type, which he offers to
set up for the benefit of all whom it may concern. Oh that cur elders
would Isarn to fear the devil.

A TRIAL.

We might here notice what effect legal proceedings had on a California
jury previous to the institution of our present courts. Being in San
Jose in the winter of 1849, while ihe first Legislature was in session at
?hat place, a suit washeing tried before the Judge of the First Instance.
The point at issue being the title to a lot of land in the town of San
Jose, for wliich both the plaintiff and the defendant held Alcaldes'' deeds.
The dust being a little more plentiful then, than it is at present, the
litigants had each armed himself with a limb of the law. It was
«()on made known amongst the "great unwashed" that two "rale
lawyers were gwoine to plead, " and a genera! rush took place for the
courthouse. To give the general reader an idea of the whole affaii,
it is necessary to describe the Judge and Jury. The Judge like a
iriajority of tlie judges in California at that day, was a firm, honest, and
just man, with good common " boss sense, " but possessing very faint
ideas of law, or the many little technicalities attending thereon. The
jury composed of twelve honest men, presented rather a rough appearance,
for so honorable a body. Eight out ot the twelve had their waist
adorned with California ^'eiweZry, in the shape of six shooters and bowie
knives ; the other four being Spaniards, had the top of their leggins
beautified with the protruding silver handles of the never absent boot
knife. Fiom the unusually healthy appearance of some of their
countenances, it was quite evident that they had been in attendance on
one of the wnkes nightly held during that winter of magnificent drinks
in the third House of the Legislature. The two legal gentlemen, who
had attracted the attention of the " unwashed, " were duly in attendance.
One armed, simply with a volume of the Holy Scriptures, while his
opponent c:ime with a perfect load of volumes on Law, which was the
most attractive feature in the whole proceedings, as the astute gentleman
piled up the volumes before him on the table, until it appeared as if ho
had th^ whole Congressional Library to draw from, and some of that
vile auditory went even so far as to " larf. " One of the old ones,
whose buck skin suit, and unshaved and unshorn appearance proclaimed
him to be one of the old trappers before mentioned, became indignant at
such displays, and informed the crowd that, "that war " too bad for
honest citizens to stand, for boys, I 'ev been tellin' on you, what this
'ere country would be comin' to afore long. " A kind of " that ar"
a fact, approbation was given to this opinion ; quiet was restored, and
the trial proceeded. Numerous witnesses were examined in the case,
pro and con, to whose evidence the jury listened with attention. At
times a discussion would take place as to the different points in the
evidence, between the legal gentlemen, which was highly amusing to
the outsiders, many of whom actuatlv had never seen a case conducted
by attorneys before, and such exclamations as " don't yo hear that, "
"don't it take them 'ere fellows;" by gosh he's a boss;" " he be
<1 d ; " and so on, as the gentlemen either gained applause or dis-
approbation.

The examination of the witnesses being closed, the attorney for the
plaintiff was about to comnnence his ar^unnent before the jury, when
two or three of those honorable gentlemen had to beg leave to go out a
moment — and nearly all of them had the same occasion to leave. 1 did
not see any of them drink ardent spirits, but they all went into a place
where it was mixed and sold at that time. The jury being again
seated, the legal gentleman opened his case in quite an elegant style,
which was listened to with " hang mouth " attention ; he turned to the
jury ; and to soft soap that body in particular, commenced by saying :
*' Gentlemen of the jury, I can't say that you are, physically speaking,
handsome men, [a laugh, in which the court joined,] but I do say that
I feel assured, from your sun-burnt brows and toil-worn hands, that you
constitute as honest and upright a body of men as ever sat on a jury. "

Juror — " Wal, we a'nt nothin' else, and I feel confident that your
client's cause is safe in your hands. "

The legal gentleman had all that rough assemblage on his side up to
this point ; but as he had never seen the elephant, he commenced to
overhaul the numerous volumes of law that lay piled up in front of him,
and after opening them at numerous marked places, he turned to the
jury, and commenced by saying : " Now, gentlemen, I will read to you
all the law bearing on this case.'' But alas ! Othello's occupation was
gone. At the mention of law, a buzz of disapprobation was heard in
the crowd, and the jury was almost thrown into spasms. The legal
gentleman took no notice of this, but raising up one of his books, said :
" Nou^, gentlemen of the jury, I will read to you from Blackstone,
vol. 2, page "

Juror — " No, you needn't ; we don't submit to any of Blackstone's
laws here."

Juror 2d — " No, nor Mexican neither."

Juror 2d — A big, burly looking man — stood up, shook himself,
blowed something similar to a hunchback whale, and then sat down
again.

The legal gentleman appeared to be "set back over a feet," and
commenced a stirring appeal to the court for protection. The court,
not being posted up in such mutters, squirmed and twisted about, simi-
lar to an eel in a frying-pan. The judge lit his pipe, wiped his spec-
tacles, and gracefully informed the jury that they must submit to hear
the reading of all the law necessary in the case. The laws in refer-
ence to the case, from different commentaries, were then read to a per-
fectly inattentive and disgusted jury.

The attorney employed by the defendant then arose. He had seen
the Texas elephant, and knew well the course he had to pursue. He
told the jury that he had a better knowledge of the state of California,
than to think for a moment that such a thing as' laws of any kind ex-
isted, with the exception of the accursed laws of Mexico, which he
knew no true American would submit to. After a short but patriotic
speech and eloquent address, he submitted the case to the jury, amidst
a thunder of applause. The jury soon returned a verdicr for defendant.

The defendant was a white man, the plaintiff a greaser ; this fact might
have had some slight influence, but I guess not, An appeal was imme-
diately taken.

The plaintiff and defendant had then plenty of money, and in 1851
the case was still before the supreme court. I saw the defendant, with
whom I am acquainted, a short time ago, and, gentle reader, he was
the poorest white man I ever saw.

TUI.ARE VAliliEY.

In the many histories and sketches which have been written on
California, not one of them has given to the public any authentic
account or satisfactory description of this vast body of valuable land,
which has laid for ages the home of the wild beast of the field, where
they have foamed in wild liberty over its vast and fertile bosom unchecked
by the hand of man- The writer does not undertake this task for any
other purpose than to give to the world a true and correct history of
this valley, which remains a hidden mystery to even nine-tenths of the
inhabitants of California at the present day.

In extent this valley reaches from the head of Suisun Bay to Walker's
pass, within 120 miles of Los Angeles, being a distance of near three
hundred miles in length. It is bounded west by the coast range of
mountains, and on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and its average
width is about sixty miles — measuring from the foot of the low hills Oii
each side. The Moquelumne river may be said to be the dividing line
between the Tulare and the Sacramento Valleys. This vast plain,
containing 20,000 square miles of tillable land, and watered by many
rivers, and beautified by lakes, is as yet an almost unknown portion of
our State, as regards its value to the agr'culturist and mioer.

Its climate is, as Col. Fremont remarks, like that of Italy, although
the middays of summer are, in many portions of it — especially the
lower part of the valley — oppressively hot ; yet the evenings and nights
are deliciously cool and refreshing. From above the mouth of the
Merced to the head of the valley, a cool breeze blows from the north-
west from 10 o'clock, A. M., until 10 P. M., which keeps the air
perfectly pure and refreshing throughout the summer months. In
winter, a perfect spring may be said to exist, as the centre of the valley

is never covered with frost or snow, except an unusual hard winter
prevails. Owing to the height of the upper part of the valley above
the level of the sea, it makes the most delightful and salubrious portions
of California, and where man has but to dwell for a season, and he
becomes enraptured with its loveliness.

Soil. — The traveller, crossing this valley, or traversing it in any
direction during the dry season, would judge from its parched appear-
ance, where it is not watered by the rivers, that it is a barren waste,
unfit for any purposes of man. This was the opinion 1 formed of it on
raiy first visit. Being a practical farmer, I had a curiosity to examine
the soil and the inducements offered by the general aspect of the coun-
try to agricultural pursuits. The lower part of the valley consists of a
deep, rich, sandy loam, intermixed with strata of decayed vegetable
nnatter, the whole resting on a bed of gravel or sand. The depth of
this soil varies from one to six feet, the deeper portions being nearest
the centre of the valley. The vicinity of the Tule Lake, and the
large body of land lying between the lake and the San Joaquin river
consists of a light loam, intermixed with different species of clay.
There is no portion of this valley, from the head of Tule Lake to Sui-
sun Bay, that is not all that the agriculturist can desire, when aided by
means of irrigation. From the head of the Tule Lake to the vicinity
of Kern River and Buena Vista Lake, a distance of seventy-five miles,
the valley may be pronounced a barren desert, with the exception of a
strip of some ten miles in width, bordering on the slough of Buena
Vista Lake. Around this lake and Kern river, the soil again assumes
a rich, sandy loam. This banen portion of the valley is composed of
red clay, interspersed with different mineral substances, and so under-
mined by gophers and kangaroo rats, as to be in many places impassa-
ble by man or beast, even in the dry season. No live thing is to be
seen upon its dreary bosom, either animal or vegetable, with the excep-
tion above mentioned.

In the dry season, there is not one drop of water to be found within
the boundaries of its parched bosom. This relates to the valley only ;
in the coast range, and Sierra Nevada bordeiing on it, are to be found
beautiful vallies, well timbered and watered. These vallies are formed
by the long spurs making out from the mountains : and many of them
offer every inducement to settlers, owing to their rich soil and unequal-
led climate.

RiVRRS. — On the western side of the valley, from Suisun Bay to the
head of these plains, there is not one stream to be met with. During
the rainy season, there are several small creeks running from the coast
range into the valley, none of which contain water only during the
continuation of the rains. On the eastern side, in going south from the
Moquelnmne, the first stream met with is the Calaveras. This stream,
taking it? rise but a short distance in the Sierra Nevada, is not affected
by the melting snows, and is only a stream of note during the rainy
season — at that time it becomes a deep and rapid river ; its overflows
fill several of the sloughs in the vicinity of Stockton, but its principal

body empties Tntd tlie Moquelumne. From the middle of August to
the first of November, it becomes dry, with the exception of pools
found along its bed. All the springs and rivers of California commence
rising some tw^o or three weeks before the rainy season commences,
and by the middle of November, the Calaveras becomes a running
stream the greater portion of its length. It is useless for any purposes
of navigation or for irrigating its valley.

The Stanislaus is a river of some note ; taking its head far in the
Sierra Nevada, it continues a large, deep, and rapid river from the first
of December until the first of July, being fed by the rains during the
winter and the melting snows during the beginning of the dry season.
This river could be made navigable for vessels of light draught, for 25
miles from its junction with the San Joaquin. During the dry seasons,
its waters are sufficient to irrigate the entire plain lying between it and
the Calaveras. The modes of irrigation from these rivers will be noticed
in their proper place.

I'he Tuolumne is nearly the same size of the Stanislaus, and could
be made navigable for nearly the same distance. It empties into the
San Joaquin some ten miles above the mouth of the Stanislaus.

The Merced is a much larger stream than any yet mentioned, and
could be made navigable to near the foot of the mountains during the
season of high water. It empties into the San Joaquin some 25 miles
above the Tuolumne.

The Mariposa, Cowchilla, and Fresno rivers may be classed with the
Calaveras, being running streams during the rainy season and spring
only. These streams do not enter directly into the San Joaquin, but
their united waters form the immense tule marsh between the bend of
the San Joaquin and the mouth of the Merced ; the water thus collected
enters into the San Joaquin at many diiferent points during high water.
The Mariposa being celebrated for the rich mineral lands it drains, is
formed by the union ofFremont's,AguaFrio creeks and their tributaries.
After it enters the plains some five miles, it forks, and the water thus
divided, continues its course towards the marsh, but the waters of them
sink to such a degree, that the branches can be stepped across where
they enter the tule marsh.

The San Joaquin is the next and last river that runs from the Sierra
Nevada directly to the sea in this valley, and forms the main channel
that drains the lakes and carries off" the waters of all the rivers before
mentioned. All the rivers that run into the Tulare valley, having their
heads in the Sierra Nevada, run into the plain, where they run nearly
due west to the San Joaquin and the lakes. The San Joaquin is, with
but one exception, the largest of these rivers. Wheie it leaves the
mountain, it runs westward for upwards of forty miles from ti;e low
hills to the middle of the plains, where it suddenly bends to the N. N.
W., and continues its course to Suisun bay. At its bend it is joined by
the lake slough, which conveys into it the spare waters from the lakes in
the plains above. The San Joaquin for size and commercial purposes,
may be rated as the third river on the vvestern coast of America. By

an outlay of some few thousand dollars in improving its navifjation, by
the removal of points in the short bends and sand bars formed by them,
vessels drawing two feet water could navigate it to within twenty miles
of the point where it leaves the Sierra Nevada, during ihe year, a
distance by river of near four hundred miles. Vessels drawing from
four to five feet water, can run up as far as the mouth of the lake
slough during seven months in the year. As yet no inducements are
offered to steamers to navigate the San Joaquin higher than Stockion,
although they have been up as far as Graysonville ; schooners and brigs
have also been up to this point. The writer has twice navigated this
river, and once sounded it from BonselTs Ferry to the rapids at the foot
of the mountains, and in regard to its capabilities for navigation, speaks
from experience ; but the obstructions above named must be removed to
make it navigable as far as stated. The current of the San Joaquin is
about 2 1-2 miles per hour, from its juction with the lake slough to
where it meets the influence of the tides.

King's river is nearly as large as the San Joaquin. It is navigable
to the mountains, but its length from the low hills to where it enters
the Tulare lake, is only about 40 miles It empties through several
mouths into the north-east corner of the Tulaie lake, and is a beautiful
and picturesque river.

The Four Creeks are the next waters met with. These deep and
rapid streams are formed by one river. Lieut G. H. Derby of the U.
S. Topographical Engineers, who made the first surveys of this portion
of California, in May, 1850, named this Francis River. It is larger
than the San Joaquin or any of its tributaries where it leaves the
mountain.

This stream can be heard when you have gone a few miles in among
the Buttes at iis entrance on the plain, thundeiing from the rocky heights
of the snow capped Nevada, Its waters, as if tired of their task, seem
to stop to rest in a beautiful small lake, formed amongst the conical
hills.

These hills divide the waters of Francis River at the foot of the Lake
into the four streams known to the traveller on the plains as the Four
Creeks. These Creeks meander thro' a heavily timbered and beautiful
country, some 25 miles, where they empty their waters into the Tule
Lake.

A-llow me here to digress for a few moments from the tenor of these
sketches, and you who admire the beauties of nature, untouched by the
hands of man, accompany me to the top of the conicai hill that rises its
head near the mountain — far above the rest that surround it — and there
view the fancy pencillings of the finger of the unseen Hand that formed
from chaos tiiis the myst lovely spot in California. — Now from its top
v;e see around us a hundred conical hills rising from the plain, smooth
and diagrameticaliy shaped, as if done by the chisel of the aitist.
Here, too, the Sierra Nevada rises abruptly from the plains — its wall-
like, rugged sides running almost perpendicularly up, until its spiral
peaks are capped with the eternal snows that shine with dazzling

brightness fiom the rays of the rising sun. Yonder, far in the plain,
rise tall spiral cones of long, slim rocks, whose bristling tops look like
piles of spears stacked by giants of another age, who have long
departed, and left their arms to turn to stone, beneath the petrifying
hand of time. Here, on the green plain, from which the Buttes rise
can be seen here and there the broad, low-spreading branches of the
evergreen oaks. The stillness of nature around is only broken by the
thunder of the waters of Francis River as they come through the rocky
gorges of the mountain passes: but, here at our feet, their white foam
has died away, and in this crystal lake, where fish of a thousand species
sport, they seem to stop and rest before they hurry on totheirdestination.
Now let us turn and look westward. — The oaks, in theii majesty,
thickly cover the plain for miles around, and stretch away to the shore
of the Tulare Lake. Amongst them and through high green grass,
meander the Four Creeks. To the right, at the distance of 25 miles,
runs the belt of timber, maiking the course of King's river to the lake.
On the left is seen at the distance of 20 miles, the broad body of timber
that marks the course of Tule river. The body of land, thus bounded,
is thn best in the valley — well tinbered and watered, and covered with
the finest grass in California. Stretching beyond this to the west lie
the placid blue waters of the Tulare lake, whose ripples wash the foot
of the low hills of the coast range — the blue tops of'v;hich sit a
boundary to the scene.

As we look on this — the garden of California — the pride of an
American heart makes our mind to people it with the hardy farmers of
this country. We can imagine their neat cottages peeping out from
amidst fields of flowing grain. We can see the neat village with its
church spires, marking the march of civilization — and hear the lowing
herds that browse on the luxuriant grass around. But those fancy pen-
oilings of the mind are put to flight, as our eyes fall on the scene at our
feet. Heie, at the foot of the mound on which we have been viewing
the scene, the grass has been trampled down — the smoke of immense
fires has scarce died away ; the scene tells you that a large encampment
has just left. Yes, it is the late camp of the Indian Commissioners.
Those fires were their council fires, where they have been making trea-
ties with the wild beasts of the field in human shape. Stand on the
borders of this camp ! a long line of ashes marks the place where once
stood the buildings erected at an immense expense by the United States !
there, too, almust wiihin it, are twelve hillocks of fresh earth — they
are the graves of twelve of our murdered countrymen ! Here, over
these smoking ruins — here, over the graves of our murdered compan-
ions, have the soft hands of the Commissioner grasped in friendship
those of the incendiary, and the murderers of our people. And here
these good Commissioners signed avi^ay to the Digger Indian all the
right of the white man to the best portion of this desirable spot. Can
these treaties stand? Will the settlers of Califori.ia submit to if? No.
Look among the graves there ; one looks greener than the rest ; it is
poor old Wood's grave. He was my old coinpaiiion ; we together ex-

plored the plains around, wheie the foot of the white man had never
trod before. He -uas the first settler on the Four Creeks. He now
sleeps there, murdered by the Indians, who, instead of being punished,
have been pampered, fed and enriched, by the Christian hands of the
Indian Commissioners. But now the demon of revenge has seized my
soul ; the blood runs boiling through my veins ; the beautiful scene
around has become dark and desolate. Come, let us hasten away on
our descriptive journey up the plains.

The next stream above the Four Creeks is Tule River, which is the
last that enters directly into the lake. This river is near the size of the
Tuolumne, and continues to run throughout the year. Five miles from
this is Moore's Creek, a pretty stream, which runs until about the mid-
dle of July, All the above mentioned rivers are well timbered with
oak, and the valleys along them are everything that man can desire for
the purpose of agriculture or grazing. The land lying between them
only wants water and cultivation to convert it into gardens.

From Moore's Creek to Kern River, a distance by a direct course up
the plain of seventy-five miles, there is but one small stream running
through into the plains, which is called Cotton Wood Creek, in Lieut.
Derby's survey. This stream ceases to run in July, but the thirsty
traveller can find water in any place in the low hills at any time of the
year, by smking holes a few feet in its sandy bottom. This creek is
about half way between Moore's Creek and Kern River ; the waters of
this and Moore's Creek, after forming a lagoon in the plains, find iheir
way to the lake through a slough. A short distance from where the
slough of Buena Vista Lake enters it, Kern River is the most southerly
river of the Tulare Valley ; it is a fine stream, and nearly as large as
the San Joaquin. After running a short distance into the plain, it
branches out, and a large portion of it runs nearly northwest into the
Lake slough ; the balance of its waters are discharged into Buena Vista
Lake. The whole or part of the waters of this river could, if neces-
sary, be led along the foot of the low hills as far as Moore's Creek,
from which the plains now parched up could be irrigated. This, like
the other rivers, is well timbered, and the land in its vicinity is of the
most fertile quality.

Lakes. — There are now but tvi^o lakes in the Tulare Valley of any
note — the Tulare and Buena Vista. In Col. Fremont's survey, the
Tulare Lake is laid down as being double the size that it is at the pres-
ent day ; in 1842, when his survey was made, the body of water he has
laid down did exist, but was two distinct lakes, divided by a high, nar-
row ridge of land, and only connected by a slough. These lakes were
known to settlers, and priests of the missions of Calitbrnia ; the lower
one as attache, and the upper one as non-attache lake. The attache only
now exists, and is known as the Tulare Lake. It is about fifty miles in
length by thirty in width ; its length and breadth can be used fur the
purpose of navigation ; its waters are now eight feet lower than they
were ten years ago, and they continue yearly to decrease. It is fed by
Kinir's River, Four Creeks^. Tule River, imd the sloughs draininc- tJT^

vipper waters of the valley. The banks of the non-aliache lake are stiL
plainly visible.

The slough from Buena Vista Lake passes through its old bed, and
during the season of high water there are large lagoons formed in many
places along in the bounds of the old lake. Buena Vista Lake is a
beautiful sheet of water, twenty miles long, and from five to ten in
■width ; it lays nestled in the head of the valley, and is fed by Kern
River, and several small creeks which empty into it. The Sierra Ne-
vada and coast range of mountains here unite, and form the head of ihe
valley. The neighborhood of Kern River and Buena Vista Lake is
such that the inducements offered to the settler will soon people it.
The Cajon pass from Los Angeles, the Panoche pass from San Luis,
and the celebrated Walker's pass from the east, all come in here, in
the vicinity of Buena Vista Lake. Colonel Fremont, in giving his
opinion to a committee of gentlemen who had under consideration the
great Whitney project of a railroad to the Pacific, informed them that
Walker's pass was the only practicable point for a railroad to be con-
structed through the mountains. Owing to Col. Fremont's thorough
knowledge of the topography of these mountains, his statements can be
relied upon ; and if the iron horse ever snuffs the balmy air of Califor-
nia, it will be, as he imagines, from the hills at Buena Vista Lake.
But more of this anon.

Lake Sloughs. — The slough that conveys the water from Tulare
Lake into the San Joaquin, is, during the high water, sufficiently deep
to float vessels of the largest class, its length, from its entrance into
the San Joaquin to the edge of the tule beds of the lake, is about thirty-
five miles. Many are under the impression that this slough runs di-
rectly into the Tulare Lake, and forms a navigable chain between the
two. This is not so. The depth of the slough is sufficient foi any
class vessel, but it is so crooked that it is difficult to sail through it in a
small boat ; but the great preventative to its navigation is, that it does
not run into the lake.

The tules at the lower end of the lake are some fifteen miles in width ;
the water of the lake oozes out through this for miles, and then, owing
to the height of the lake above the slough, the water begins to gather
into small sloughs; and these, running to a common centre, form near
the other edge of the tules the lake slough. Where the slough leaves
the tules, there is a fall of near five feet, and the water runs rapidly for
the distance of nearly a mile. The writer made three attempts to enter
the lake in a whale boat, but did not succeed in getting over three miles
into the tules, owing to the slough spreading into hundreds of small
branches, too narrow and swift lo get a boat through.

Lieut. Plamilton, of the U. S. army, entered the lake from King's
River in a boat, and carefully examined the lower part of it, but could
not discover the least sign of any outlet. During high water, there is
a slough which makes out of King's River, and running along the edge
of the tules of the lake, enters the lake slough near its head. This
slough could be navinrated b^ Qrv,oii h^j^ ^-^j. about two months in tLa

year. The public may rest assured that there is no direct outlet to the
Tulare Lake, through which a boat can pass.

The slough connecting the Tulare and Buena Vista Lakes is about
eighty miles in length, and is navigable for small hoais during the
greater pan of the year. This s'ough passes through the bed of non-
attache lake, and during high water there is a lagoon Ibrms on it, near
•its centre, which is about twenty miles long, and from one to four miles
in width. Travellers coming down the west side of the valley, (which
is by far the best route to the north, or to the southern mines,) follow
this slough, on which is good grass for animals throughout ihe year.

Agkicultukal RitSOURCES. — In giving to the public a description of
the Tulare Valley and its resources, [ am guided by personal observa-
tion, aided by the opinions of geologists, farmers, planters, cultivatois
of the vine and tea tree, with whom 1 have had intercourse and consul-
tation on the va'ue of California as an agiicultural country ; or to what
purposes its rich larids could be converted from the stillness in which
they have lain through ages past, and made to swell our commerce and
trade, and enrich our people.

Six years ago, the only knowledge that the world at large had of
Calif')rnia, was by the topographical survey of Col. Fremont, whose
report started to our shores some of the hardy pioneeis of the western
States The accounts given by our naval officers, with but few excep-
tions, presented it as a barren country, unfit for anything but grazing
purposes; yet all united in praise of its unequalled climate. The gold
discoveiies following the news of peace with Mexico, and the acquisi-
tion of California by the United States, had a tendency to retard the
developmstit of its agricultural resources for several years ; but now its
value as such is just being appreciated. Many now find that the po-
tatoe and onion diggins fully equal in value any diggings yet discovered.

There is not one foot of California, (the Sierra Nevada and gold
region excepted,) on which wheat, barley and oats cannot be raised to
any extent desired. In the old States, as the farmer sows his seed,
doubts cross his mind as to whether he will ever reap as much in quan-
tity as he sows ; twenty-five fold is the greatest yield he can expect,
and that on his best land, and all depending on the season.

But here the farmer can start at the mountain top and sow down to
the depths of the valley, and know that the yield will be at least
seventy-five fold. It is no rare occuirence here to reap from a hundred
to a hundred and twenty-five fanegas to one sown ; and in many ii;i-
Btances, three crops of barley and wheat have been raised from one sow-
ing, the yield of the third year being half as good as the first. Under
such circumstances, why should (California yearly send millions of dol-
lars to foreign ports for bread? It will not continue; the plough is
about to work out a new state of afl^airs for us, and place California on
an equal footing with her sister States; we will soon have plenty and
to spare.

I saw, in 1850, a crop of barley, raised on the Tulare Plains, equal
to any I ever saw in the country. It was raised on a barren looking

55.

spot, where there never was any water except during the continuation
of the rains. It was sown in December and gathered in June, The
Tulare Plains will produce, without irrigation, small grain on every
foot of them, with the exception already mentioned.

For the cultivation of corn and vejietables, irrigation becomes neces-
sary ; and for this purpose the great Unseen Hand has provided the wa-
ters that, with but a small exertion of the hand of man, will spread to
any point he may desire.

The tule marshes, about which much has been written, invite the plan-
ter to convert them into rice fields ; they can be drained or flooded at plea-
sure for that purpose. Along the rivers and in the drained tule beds,
hemp, flax and tobacco can be raised to an extent and perfection that
would stand unparalleled. A gentleman from the southern states in-
formed me thai he had closely examined the soil of the Tulare Valley,
and that from his observations, he felt assured that cotton and the sugar
cane could be brought to high perfection any place within the plain.

For the cultivation of the grape, California will contend with sunny
France or Italy ; and the whole of this valley could be made one vast
vineyard and orchard.

We have amongst us several thousand of the inhabitants of China;
a great many of them are intelligent men, from whom much reliable
information can be obtained in regard to the introduction of the tea
plant into California, and ihe value of our tule lands for the cultivation
of rice. I have been assured by some of them that every inducement is
offered for the introduction and cultivation of tea in California. These
emigrants are, as a class, the best people we have amongst us — they are
sober, quiet, industrious and inoffensive. It is a rare occurrence that
they appear in our courts, engaged in suits of any kind ; and never un-
der criminal charges, has one of them been tried, or one act of dishon-
esty detected amongst them. Those of them who understand the civil
institutions of the United States, adore them ; and on our festive days
or days of celebrations of our public achievements, the China men can
be seen in great numbers in the ranks of our processions dressed in the
grotes(jue costume of their country. Thousands of these men are
ready to become i-itizens of the U. S., settle down, and turn our waste
lands into beautiful fields, as soon as proper inducements and protection
is afforded them ; and no belter class of men could be chosen to develop
the agricultural resources of the Tulare Yalley than the Chinese who
are amongst us.

Tobacco and flax now grow in a wild state on the middle portions of
the Tulare plains, and acres of it may be seen in different places around
the lakes, and between the Tulare Lake and the San Joaquin.

The lands lying along the different rivers of the plains, are the most
desirable of any in the valley ; they can be successfully cultivated in
any species of vegetation desired, without the aid of irrigation. Farms
running two miles into the plains from these rivers, would be the most
valuable of any in California. The soil is rich and deep, and the bot-
toms are heavily timbered with oak of the best quality, and suliicient

ior alt purposes of fencing, etc. In cultivating the lauus (5n the" ea'sT
side of the valley, between the rivers, an apparent obstacle may arise
fronri the want of timber. This scarcity can be easily remedied, from
the inexhaustible supplies of the finest timber from the adjacent Sierra
Nevada mountain, not only for agricultural purposes, but for plank or
railroads. If a railroad is ever constructed from the Mississippi to the
Pacific ocean, it is most probable its course will be down the Tulare
Valley, as Walker's Pass oflfers the only practicable point at which it
can pass the mountain barriers that gird the Pacific coast. Every ma-
terial for the construction of a railroad along the foot of the Sierra Ne-
vada, is at hand the entire length of the Tulare Valley. It is but folly
to doubt for a moment, in this fast age we live in, that a railroad will,
at some early day, be constructed from the Atlantic States to California,
connecting with an iron belt the two extremities of our Union, it is
but for the American people to say it shall be, and presto, 'tis done. —
Things go too slow now between the two oceans to satisfy our fast pro-
pensities, and without some genii of the universal Yankee tribe should
invent an aerial road, and some fine day come scanning it through the
air, the railroad ivill be built. '

The greatest difficulty under which the farmer labors in California, is
the want of timber ; but this is a small obstacle when surmounted by
the introduction of wire fencing, which is as durable and efficient as
that of wood. The rich lands that have been so successfully cultivated
in the vicinity of the Mission of San Jose for the last two years, are at
least twenty miles from any timber ; but the deficiency is chiefly sup-
plied by the wire fence. These fences can be put up at a less expense
than those of timber, and are fully efficient in protecting crops against
the depredations of stock.

Owing to the want of proper grasses ever being introduced on the
tulare plains, it becomes bare during the dry season, with the exception
of those parts watered by the rivers. On the lower side of the Stan-
islaus River, opposite Mr. Belcher's ranch, a few Mormon families
commenced a settlement in '47; they introduced the red top grass
which is known as herd grass. This grass is the best that farmers can
sow in the Tulare valley ; it forms a thick, substantial sod on marsh
lands, and grows luxuriantly on high and dry places; it affi:)rds excel-
lent pasturage during the year, and hay made from it equals the best
cured clover hay. It can now be seen where it has spread from the
Stanislaus to the French Camp above Stockton. The writer procured
from this grass about a pint of seed in 1849, and scattered it in the bend
of the San Joaquin where the earth was naked. It is now spread for
five or six miles around, thickly covering the earth and affording the
best of pasturage or land for cutting hay from. This grass is no doubt
the best that can be introduced on the plains.

Through the barren portion of the plain between Moore's creek and
Kern river, there is a belt of land along the Buena Vista Lake Slough,
about fifteen miles in width, which could, by introducing on it the herd
grass, be converted into the best grazing land in the valley. Thousands

of wild horses subsist on the grasses growing there now. It is not th«
valley alone that can be made a garden, but in the coast range and Sierra
Nevada, there are large and fertile valleys, well timbered and watered,
that will afford room for large settlements. Nearly all the land on the
rivers has already been taken up by settlers, the Indian reservations not
excepted, as they are generally the best in the valley ; but a short time,
and squatters' stakes will be seen planted all over the plains.

I would respectfully invite from our cities and towns the gentlemen
organ grinders, cappers for gambling tables, runners for steamboats and
hotels, venders of pies and parched corn, pickpockets, and wharf loafers,
who are now a nuisance to our communities, to take a walk into the
country and look at the rich lands that invite them to honest labor and
wealth. If you can make nothing by mining, the farmer wants your
services, for which he will pay you well. California is no place for
you to follow your old callings ; it won't pay.

The Tulare Valley is celebrated for being the most healthy portion of
California. The only place that is subject to disease of any kind, is in
the neighborhood of the Tulare Lake, where the ague is prevalent at
certain seasons of the year. Not only in the valley, but in the mineral
regions bordering on it, prevailing diseases of no kind have as yet made
their appearance. The prevailing north-west winds during the summer
months, and the unparalleled purity of the air during the winter in this
region, warrants health, the greatest wealth man can possess.

The many inducements offered the agriculturist in this valley ,*and the
many large and fruitful valleys adjoining it, in the coast range of moun-
tains, must soon people it with a farming community. The rivers are
highways to market for all the produce raised in this section of country,
and Stockton a market house for its reception. Every river of any note
in these plains offers the best sites for mills or factories in California,
as any water power desired can be obtained on them.

Mineral Resources. — The mineral resources of the Tulare Plains,
of themselves, is no doubt of but small importance ; but the surrounding
mountains are loaded with mineral riches, which are here included in
the wealth and resources of these plains. All that portion of the gold
region from Rio Seco south, is included in what is known as the souih-
ern mines, and border on the Tulare Valley. These mines now receive
their supplies through Stockton and the rivers above it. This region
will be peopled with thousands of miners for a hundred years to come,
who being consumers, will ever afford to the farmer a ready market for
his produce, thus keeping within ourselves the wealth derived from our
inexhaustible resources. Although millions of dollars have already
been taken from the southern mines, their real value is but just begin-
ning to bs developed. The rivers draining this portion of the mineral
lands of California, aie not as rich as those of the northern mines, but
the dry diggings, and the vast quartz veins, surpass in richness those of
the north. The whole southern mineral region is traversed with the
richest quartz veins ever discovered. Their number, richness and mag-
nitude, makes the word *' inexhaustible" convey but a slight idea of

their extent. Hundreds of squ?-") miles lying amongst these \f',r.s yet
remain untouched by the miner's pick, although a lich deposit i' •> al-
most all over the region which they traverse — the depth varying, .rom
the surface of the earth, where millions of dollars have been gaUiered,
down to hundreds of feet. At Moqaelumne Hill, Murphys Diggings,
and other places, many have realized large fortunes by sinking from fifty
to a hundred and fifty feet in the hills, where at the bed rock the rich
deposits are^ found ; and these places are but the beginning of what is to
be realized in the mineral region by this source of mining.

There has been but little mining done south of the San Joaquin ; but
it is not because gold is not to be found there^ both in placer diggings
and quartz veins, that the progress of the miner south has been pre-
vented. The gold deposits between the Mariposa and Kern Rivers are
to be found far in the Sierra Nevada. The numerous veins of quartz
bear to the south, and can be traced as far as man can get to the east in
the Sierra Nevada. The writer has found gold on King's River, Tule
River, and on a branch of Kern River, all of these places being far in
the east. The mountains at tho head of the valley become low, and
can be passed with pack mules to the east, at almost any point at ihe
head of the Tulare valley. Walker's pass, however, is no doubt the
best. The most correct map of the mountains of this as yet almost
unknown region of California, is the one made by the Jesuit priest, in
1775. A copy of these turveys, with an accompanying journal, is now
in the possession of Dr. A. Randall, of Monterey, a gentleman cele-
brated for his scientific acquirements, who is about to have the map and
journal published. From this map, it appears that these priests have
explored several hundred miles further up the Colorado than any sur-
veys of the American government have been made, and traversed the
region between the head of the Colorado and the head of the Tulare
valley, in four different directions. They describe the country as being
broken by low ranges of mountains, interspersed with rich and fertile
valleys; and, although the mineral resources of this section are un-
touched, yet it is evident thai the belt of gold which traverses Califor-
nia, passes into Sonora and Mexico through here.

Owing to the numerous tribes of hostile Indians, and the remote situ-
ation from supplies, of the region south of the San Joaquin, but little
has been done in miuing operations, or any explorations of consequence
made ; and there is no donbt, from the appearance of this region of
California, that gold deposits of unequalled richness yet lay untouched.

Silver, iron, and cinnabai are also found in this region. In exploring
in the neighborhood of Moore's creek, the writer, in company with
others, fooud a shaft, partly filled up, that had been sunk apparently
twelve or fifteen years ago ; a part of the windlass apparatus was still
standing, but in an advanced stage of decay. This shaft can be seen at
the foot of one of the spurs of the Sierra Nevada, near Moore's creek,
and -dbout five miles from the edge of the plains. On inquiring of an
Indian who had been at work there, he at once informed us that long
ago mma while men and Spaniards had been there, but they all died.

5«

This party were no doubt all murdered by the Indians. On mentioning-
this circumstance to Dr. A. S. Wright, a scientific gentleman for many
years connected with many of the silver mines in Mexico, he informed
me thai from the description given, it was no doubt the same place
•woriced by a company of explorers who were fitted out and sent from
Mexico to California, some twelve years ago. He then informed me
that in the archives at the city of Mexico^ there was on record a letter
from a Jesuit priest, dated at one of the missions in 1776, informing the
government that in the search amongst the mountains for sites for mis-
sions, they had discovered silver in pure masses that weighed several
tons ; but to prevent a sable mining population from emigrating to Cali-
fornia and destroying the prospects of the missions, they had prohibited
the Indians and others who accompanied them, on pain of excommuni-
cation and death, from disclosing where these deposits were. The
knowledge of this recoid induced Mr. Wright and others of his asso-
ciate miners in Mexico to fit out the exploring party before mentioned,
which was put under the direction of a Mr. Hoyt. After several
months' absence, Mr. Hoyt sent to them from California some of the
richest specimens of silver ore ever seen in Mexico ; Mr. Wright de-
scribed them as being almost solid silver. The place described by Mr,
Hoyt, he informed me, agreed with the description given by me of the
old shaft found on Moore's creek. After the receipt by them of Mr.
Hoyt's letter, and the specimens he sent, they never again had any tid-
ings of himself or any of his parly, although every inquiry had been
made for him.

The coast range is known to be rich in silver and cinnabar deposits,
but owing to the superior inducements ofl^ered in the gold regions, there
is but little doing in them ; but a broad hand points to a day not distant
when the earth along these ranges will be disembowelled by the miner,
and their now hidden riches be brought to light, to swell our wealth,
and fill to fullness the channels of commerce. I feel that I have but
given an ungarnished, incomplete outline of the agricultural and min-
eral resources of the Tulare valley ; but it is to be hoped that a geo-
logical survey of the State may soon be made, and those resources of it
given authentically to the world. In the mean time, lei writers remem-
ber that if they say anything against the resources of our State, they
may rest assured they but expose their ignorance.

Wild Horses and Modes op Catching them. — Of all the dumb
creatures that have been created for the use ot man, the horse stands
the most noble and useful. To see the horse in all his beauty, you
must view him as he prances on the wide and wild plains of his nativity,
unbridled or unchecked by the hand of man.

The Tulare Valley, perhaps, contains a larger portion of wild horses
than any other part of the world of the same extent. On the western
side of the San Joaquin, they are to be seen in bands of from two hun-
dred to two thousand. These bands are to be met with at intervals
from Mount Diablo to the Tulare Lake. The traveller, in going from
the mouth of the lake slough to the head of the lake — four days travel

can see the plaint covered with these fine animals as far as the eye can
reach, in every direction. There are but few horses on the eastern side
of the plains, with the exception of that portion lying between the San
Joij^quin and King's Rivers, and running down to the lake slough,
■where there are a great number yearly taken in this range by the Span-
iards at the point called Fonts de San Juan. These animals are never
seen in poor or thin condition ; a circumstance that of itself speaks
volumes for the value of the country they range over for grazing pur-
poses. Besides the innumerable quantity of these noble animals that
are to be found on the plain, the large and fine valleys in the coast range
have also their quotients.

The wild horse of the Tulares ranks amongst the finest of his species.
He, unlike the common mustang to be found in southern portions of
America, is of fine size, unparalleled proportions, and as fleet as the
•wild winds he breathes. They are of every color, from a glossy black
to pure white. When these animals are caught, they are soon tamed,
and can endure any amount of hardship without any other sustenance
than the pasturage that the country affords The Spaniards frequently
travel on one of them from seventy-five to one hundred miles per day.
For endurance of fatigue on pasturage alone as subsistence, the horses
of California have no equals. The writer, in 1847, took two horses
from the U. S. cavalada at Monterey, (from the pasture) and rode them,
cltemately, on an express, one hundred and forty miles in ten hours and
forty minutes, a feat that the officers who were in Gov. Mason's staff at
the time, well remember. The same horses were in use the following
dav, with no appearance of stiffness or marks of fatigue.

Amongst the wild horses on the Tulares, many are to be seen with
the brands of the missions and ranches on them ; and to what age these
animals will remain serviceable, or how long they live, cannot be ascer-
tained, as no notice has been taken of their longevity ; owing to their
spirit and breed, the word " old horse " is scarcely ever applied to one
ot them, although many are known to be over twenty years of age.

Amongst the animals that have escaped from their captors, and are
enjoying sweet liberty on the rude and grassy plains of the Tulares, is
the famous horse •' Sacramento," raised by Capt. Sutter. This horse
has been frequently seen by Spaniards, (who know him well,) while
running horses on the plains. As Sacramento's history is a singular
one, I must be allowed to digress until I give a brief sketch of it. He
was raised by Capt. Sutter, on the Sacramento, is a fine, large iron

frey, and fate apparently destined him to figure in our history.
[e was presented to Col. Fremont by Capt. Sutter, as a part of his
fit-out, on his return to the United States, after his first tour of explora-
tion to California ; he was the pride of that expedition ; he was taken
to Kentucky, where he was a universal. favorite and pet, and being a
stranger, from California, he was also looked upon as a cuiiosity ; but
destiny had marked out for him his course, and he was doomed to leave
the quiet retreats and shelter of civilization, and tread again the bound-
less, trackless wilderness between there and the Pacific. He arrived

in California again in time to be of considerable service to the patriots
of the bear flag army. He was sent from Sonoma to Monterey for the
service of Col. Fremont's battalion. On the way down, the party in
charge of the animals for the battalion — twenty-seven in number — were
attacked on the Salina plains by one hundred and fifty Califoriiians,
•when the short and bloody battle of the Salina was fought, and the
Spaniards put to flight. Sacramento, in this battle, was ridden by the
lamented C^apt. Burroughs. Partaking of the impetuous fire of his
rider, he plunged into the ranks of the enemy ; there he pranced with
the gallant Captain, who continued to deal death arouiid him until he
fell. Sacramento did not apparently feel the loss of his rider, as he
was still seen prancing amongst the enemy. The uneven struggle was
short, and the Califurnians were defeated. Their retreat was wild,
rapid, and disorderly, and in t.;e midst of their flying squadrons, Sacra-
mento could be seen, with head and tail erect, apparently gioiying m
their defeat ; but he soon found that he had lost his rider and his ov^'ij
cavallada, and left the enemy's ranks, and returned with a loud, exult-
ing neigh to the American camp. He was next ridden by one of Col.
Fremont's officers, on the campaign to the southern part of Caiiibrnia,
until the treaty of Los Angeles released him fmrn military service.
He was afterwards sent to a ranch, with a view of giving him some
resi ; he had remained but a short time in retirement, howe\er, before
a band of thieving Indians from the Tulares visited ihe settlements, and
stole him with many other hotses, and made for their haunts in the
mountains, with the intention of making a feast upon the flesh of our
noble animal. But Sacramento, as if conscious of his fate, and feeling
himself deserted by the Americans, whom he had so faithfully served,
determined to declare his independence ot the human family ; and he
carried out his resolve by making good his escape from his captors, and
joining one of the vast herds of his species that inhale for ever the free
winds of the valley. In this he showed a spirit imbibed from those he
had served. He is now wild and free, and amidst the whirling herds
can be seen his noble proportions, which freedom has developed to ful-
ness; but aj)parently knowing the hardships to be endured in bondage,
he Only comes near enough to the hunters to see that they are men, and
then flies like the wind, aided as he is by fear of the unerring lasso,
until distance hides the hated objects from his sight. Keep clear, brave
horse, for well you know yuur fate if you are again caught in the toils.
You have seen man long enough to know him ; you know the voice
that was once kind to you has often bade you to go, in harsh, unmean-
ing tones; the hand that caressed you also placed within your mouth
the iron bit, and guided you, a beast of burden, through rough and
thorny ways, on desert lands and mountains wild : you proudly bore
the warrior to the fatal charge, upon the battle Leld, where you learned
that man oft souglii the life of his brother for nought but power, and to
bow the neck of tne one to the other, as the fate of the contest might
decree ; and you would have soon been converted into food for him, if

6-2

lie Jiad needed you for that purpose ; you have lived too long amoiigs!
the free, i:ot to die^d again the yoke of bondage.

Th« greatest DUiriber of horses are taken by making strong corrals,
aiKl ruiining the bands iuio them. The hunters first ascertain the range
of a band, and then select a sviitable place to build their ccrral, which
is done by making a pen of heavy limber, to which is left a narrow
opening. On the outside, leading from the gate, are built wings which
gradually widen out for a long distance. When this is completed the
band are surrounded by the hunters and driven in, where they are las-
soed and tied together.

But there are great numbers taken with the lasso. For catching
horses in this way, the best and most fleet horses that the rancheros pos-
sess are selected, and are not used for several months before the running
season, which is usually in the months of May and June. They then
go into the plains in the vicinity of the most numerous bands, and make
their encampment and corral. When they get prepared for running the
bands, a scene of wild and glorious excitement commences, which must
be seen to be appreciated.

There are no people in the world that can surpass the Californians in
horsemanship. In the use of the lasso — that indispensable appendage to
a Californian's outfit — their dexteiity cannot be excelled. They will
catch an animal while at full run, around the neck or by either foot they
may desire. The unerring precision with which they throw the lasso
is only attained by long practice. In catching wild horses, the runners
usually number from ten to fifteen. In preparing for the chase they put
nothing on the horses thev ride with the exception of a light bridle or
halter, and a strong belt around the body of the horse, to which the end
of the lasso is fastened. As soon as the band of wild animals make
their appearance, the runners mount and remain on their horses until
the band come to a halt. The wild horses, when they see any strangers
in their vicinity, make a rush in a body towards them, and when within
forty or fifty yards make a halt, and if nothing frightens them they will
come close up. It is at this indecisive halt that the humters partake of
the first wild feeling of delight, which is attendant on the sports of the
chase. If the hunters are unobserved by the band, they soon intermix
with the animals on which these men are mounted, and become an easy
prey to them, each one of whom never fail to catch one. But if the
band become frightened and start off from them, then commences a
scene of rare and glorious sport. The wild animals, the hunters, and
the horses upon which they are mounted, all seem to become possessed
of a glorious monomania, which propels them over the level unbounded
plain faster than the hurricane's wild winds.

As soon as the animal caught has been choked down by the lightning
noose, which is usually but a few moments, tlie horseman dismounts and
shifts his bridle and girth to the captured horse, and mounts him and
teaches him to be the servant of man from the hour of his capture.

The increase of the wild horses of this country is very slow. Besides

the large numbers which are annually captured, there are band* of
wolves and cayotes ccntinuaily hanging round the horses, feeding on the
helpless colts, few of which escape until they become large enough to
protect themselves.

Animals and Game. — Every beast and bird of the chase and hunt
is to be found in abundance on the Tulares. Horses, cattle, elk, ante-
lope, black tail and red deer, grizzly and brown bear, black and grey
wolves, cayotes, ocelets, California lions, wildcats, beaver, otter, mink,
weasels, ferrets, hare, rabbits, grey and red foxes, grey and ground
squirrels, kangaroo rats, badgers, skunks, muskrats, hedgehogs, and
many species of small animals not here mentioned ; swan, geese, brant,
and over twenty dirterent descriptions of ducks also cover the plains
and waters in countless myriads from the first of October until the first
of April, besides millions of grocus, (sand hill crane,) plover, snipe,
and quail. The riv-s are filled with fish of the largest and most deli-
cious varieties, and the sportsman and epicurean can find on the Tulaies
everything their hearts can desire. Parlies of gentlemen from our
cities, who wish to leave for a time the confines of their narrow limits
of business, and enjoy the exhileiating pleasures of a trip into the inte-
lior, can find their every wish gralified by a journey up the Tulare
plains. April and October are the best seasons — April in particular ;
for at this time, game of every description is most abundant, and the
plains and mountains are one continued bed of roses and gaudy flowers ;
even to breathe the air, is life and health itself. Go up by land as far
as the lake, and return by water, and yon will ever bless the time you
made the excursion. The western side of the plain is the best travel-
ling, and the range of the greater portion of game. In such an excur-
sion, you can unite business with pleasure, as you can see and judge
personally of the value of the Tulares for agriculture, and her noble
river for the purpose of navigation.

Means of Irrigation. — The foundation and waters for irrigating the
Tulare valley have been furnished by the all-wise Creator, that man in
due time might apply them to fertilize with moisture the rich earth that
is not blessed with the " rains of Heaven in seed-tin-e, and in the time
of the ripening fruit." The plains have a gradual descent from Buena
Vista lake to the bay, and from the foot of the mountains on ftach side
to its centre. To irrigate the eastern portion, it is but necessaiy to
construct dams at the foot of the low hills on the different rivers, and
lead the water through channels to any portion of the plain desired.
The fall of the land is sufiicient for this purpose, and not so great as to
cause a waste at the sides of drains, by a too rapid descent. The land
is superior in quality, and better adapted to the purpose of irrigation
fronn the rivers than the Salt Lake valley, where the Mormons have so
successfully converted the waste and parched wilderness, by irrigation,
into fruitful fields. The land lying bctwcsn Tale and King's rivers
can be cultivated in any way desired, without the n.eans of irrigation ;
although the means are at hand, if required, from the Four Creeks or
either of the rivers. Between King's river and the S?*.!! Joacjin the

land is now watered by the numerous sloughs which make out from
these rivers, and meander in every direction through the plain between
them, during high water, which is in June, and a part of July, — the
very season wtien their fertilizing influences are required All the
rivers of the plain can be divided into as many different channels as
may become necessary for the purpose of watering the spaces between
the upper streams, by diverting the water out of them at the foot of the
low hills. It cannot be expected that the State, or General Govern-
ment will ever construct means of irrigation for any portion of Califor-
nia; and it must necessarily be done by tiie settlers on them. If
farming is done properly, the waters of the rivers will be required for
its aid, during the time they are swollen from the melting snows in the
mountains, in the months of Muy, June, and beginning of July, and an
abundant supply can be easily obtained.

The descriptions of the Tulare Valley that have been given in these
letters to the Republican, are but faint outlines of the true worth of this
vast body of land, which has been so long overlooked. To attract the
attention of the public to it, has been the writer's great aim ; but go and
see it for yourselves, and you will find that its worth has but halt been
told.

Will this valley ever be settled 1 Will the bare places be made green
with fruitful fields, through which the diverted crystal waters will be
seen winding their fertilizing course? Will the hum of the flouring
mill and the factory's roar, ever waken from the sleep of ages the still-
ness that has ever reigned along her mighty rivers'? Will the whistle
of the fire-horse, as he comes thundering on his iron way, ever startle
from their coverts the wild deer and elk? The answer is yes ! and that,
too, at no distant day. The unmeasured strides to greatness that Cali-
fornia has been and is now taking, warrant the assertion. The thou-
sands of the young and hearty sons of toil whom we see around us that
have come to make this their homes, tell in thunder tones that with the
blessings of God, that here nothing is impossible — that here, under the
blessings of our glorious, free and republican government, there has
been a new era commenced in the world's history, so great that the
civilized world looks On in wonder. Let not the wheels of govern-
ment become foul and fall in our way, or obstruct the paths in which
we are now treading, and •' the wilderness shall blossom as the rose,"
our mighty mountains tunneled, our thousand rivers confined to their
beds, and California, become the seat of commerce, wealth and art, —
The bright gem of the western seas.

MAP

CD. GIBBES.
1052.

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JOHN HOWELL

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SAN FRANCISCO

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Full text of "Early recollections of the mines [and Tulare Plains]"

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